In my teens, I had many happy summers at Lake Ohau, on camping holidays with my family. I recall going to Monument Hut, and seeing the cairn built to the memory of the three climbers whose deaths are mentioned here. My father was a younger member of tramping and mountaineering circles than those of the Mt Trent party, and no doubt would have heard the tales told around campfires of what happened in 1937 - one of the members of the party, W S Gilkison, was a close friend of my father, and I recall him from my younger years.
FALL TO DEATH
MOUNTAINEERS KILLED.
TRAGEDY IN THE SOUTH.
Per Press Association. DUNEDIN. March 28. A mountaineering tragedy which resulted in the loss of three lives occurred at Mt. Trent, near Lake Ohau, yesterday. Those killed were: —
SYMON D. DIVERS, of Dunedin, aged 24.
GEORGE M. EDWARDS, of Dunedin, aged 21.
ROY STEVENSON, of Oamaru, aged about 18.
Twenty-one climbers from Dunedin and Oamaru were in the party, which had arranged to scale Mount Trent during the holidays. The party left Oamaru on Thursday night by car and spent Friday packing gear at the high camp at the head of the north branch of the Huxley River, making ready for the ascent.
Yesterday nineteen of the party set out on the expedition. The mountain carried many snow patches and the surface proved difficult to cut into with ice axes for the making of steps. The party divided into five groups, each group being roped together. Good progress was made, and the leading party, in charge of Gordon Edwards, brother of George, was the first to reach the top, realising the aim of making the first conquest of the peak. Almost immediately upon this success, news was flashed along the route of the climbers that the three youths had been hurled to death.
Divers, George Edwards and Stevenson formed the final party in the ascent. Stevenson being in the middle of the trio. When they were about 7000 ft up. Stevenson, in avoiding a falling stone, failed to get his foot into one of the steps cut by the leading climbers. The three young men were on a steep snow slope on which small rocks were scattered. Stevenson stumbled and jerked his two companions out of their steps, though George Edwards managed to delay the impending tragedy for a few seconds. The weight of his companions, however, pulled him off his feet and the three young men were launched on a 1000 ft slide over hard snow to death.
Well-known climbers, W. G. McClymont and Russell Edwards, brother of George, immediately started down the slope, reaching the bottom an hour later to discover the three youths dead. Arrangements have been made to bring out the bodies, which are on a glacier 6000 ft above sea level. -Manawatu Standard, 29/3/1937.
A mountaineering tragedy which resulted in the loss of three lives occurred on Saturday on Mt. Trent, in the Southern Alps. George Edwards, one of the young men to lose his life in the accident, is seen looking at the Rudolph Glacier, north of the scene of the tragedy. Inset, "Don" Divers (left) and George Edwards, both of Dunedin, and two of the most outstanding young New Zealand mountaineers, who, with Roy Stevenson, of Oamaru, were killed while attempting the conquest of Mt. Trent. -Evening Post, 29/3/1937.
No advice has yet been received of the return of the party which is bringing out the bodies of S. D. Divers, G. M. Edwards, and R. Stevenson, the three victims of the Alpine tragedy on Mount Trent on Saturday. Everything is in readiness at the base camp in the Huxley Gorge, where pack horses are awaiting the arrival of the bodies for conveyance to the road. Owing to the roughness of the country, however, the progress of the party must necessarily be slow, and it is not expected that the base camp will be reached until Thursday afternoon. From there a further distance of three miles has to be traversed to the road. It is anticipated that the party will arrive at Lake Ohau on Thursday night and travel on to Kurow on Friday. -Evening Star, 30/3/1937.
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VICTIMS OF MOUNTAINEERING TRAGEDY Mr S. D. Divers (left) and Mr G. M. Edwards, both of Dunedin, who, with Mr R. Stevenson, of Oamaru, lost their lives while climbing Mount Trent, near Lake Ohau, on Saturday.
DEAD CLIMBERS’ PREVIOUS EXPLOITS Mr S. D. Divers (left) and Mr G. M. Edwards, two of the victims of the tragedy at Mount Trent on Saturday, photographed on the summit of Mount Cook, of which they made a successful ascent some time ago. -Otago Daily Times, 30/3/1937. BODIES BROUGHT TO OAMARU. A Hazardous Task. OAMARU, April 1. Members of the party engaged in the hazardous and exhausting task of bringing out the bodies of G. M. Edwards, S. D. Divers and Roy Stevenson, who lost their lives in attempting to climb Mount Trent on Saturday, completed their difficult task at noon to-day, when the pack-horses at the base camp were reached. The few miles to the road-head were covered by 2.45 p.m., and the remains were placed in caskets for conveyance by motor vehicle to Oamaru, which is expected to be reached on Friday morning. -Mt Benger Mail, 1/4/1937. |
SAD ORDEAL OVER
BODIES OF ALPINE VICTIMS BROUGHT HOME
TWENTY MEN ENGAGED IN HAZARDOUS TASK
DISLODGED BOULDER CADSED TRAGEDY
[Special to the ‘Star.’] OAMARU, April 2. Looking dishevelled and weary, but with the air of men with a hard task completed, the members of the party who were engaged in bringing out the three bodies of the victims of the Mount Trent tragedy, Messrs G. M. Edwards and S. D. Divers (Dunedin) and Roy Stevenson (Oamaru) arrived at Oamaru early this morning. The first party arrived at 12.30 a.m., and the others followed at various intervals.
All showed the effects of long exposure to wind and rain, and the traverse of particularly difficult and dangerous country, but nevertheless all evinced manifestations of gratitude at the safe accomplishment of one of the most hazardous and exhausing feats of alpine work in the history of mountaineering in New Zealand.
HAZARDOUS JOURNEY. Some idea of the magnitude of the task of bringing out the bodies was detailed to a reporter by the members of the first party home. Mount Trent (8,300 ft) is situated on the main divide of the Southern Alps, and contains many difficulties known to alpinists in this country because of its position at the head of the Huxley Valley. The mountain has previously withstood the efforts of alpinists to reach its summit, but during Easter a combined effort was made by the members of the Dunedin Alpine Club, assisted by one Oamaru member. Four members only reached the top; the tragedy, occurring early on Saturday afternoon, caused the others near the top to abandon the attempt.
The difficulties confronting the members in recovering and bringing out the bodies were soon made manifest. The party commenced to recover the bodies from the ice fall down which they had fallen, over 1,000ft. This task involved the difficult feat of hauling the remains up the precipice and lowering them on to Gosos Glacier (discovered by Messrs H. Stevenson, A. Gilkison, Ombler, and O’Riley).
The magnitude of this accomplishment is exemplified by the fact that the whole of Sunday was required to complete the task, over 20 men assisting. The bodies were slid over the snow, foot by foot. Each man took turns in anchoring himself with his ice axe while another progressed a few feet. To make the matter worse, heavy rain in squalls made the going difficult and dangerous, and many narrow escapes from further tragedy were experienced. Continuous rain on Monday and Tuesday prevented fires being lighted, so that members were obliged to sleep and work in wet clothes and to eat soaked food, this resulting in chills and frostbite. The party kept progressing from daylight till dark, sleeping and working in conditions of the worst.
SAD CEREMONY. At the extreme edge of the snowfield an appropriate little ceremony was conducted by the Rev. J. T. Crozier prior to commencing the long portage down the Huxley.
Appreciation of the efforts of the party was made by Mr F. C. Dawson on behalf of the relatives, he stating that pride of place must be given to those of the party who stayed on and accomplished a superhuman task under adverse conditions; also to Constables Voyce and Vurney for assistance and to Sergeant McGregor for the tactful manner in which he conducted the case. He also conveyed thanks to all those who had assisted in any way, especially Mr Preston for arranging pack horses. Sergeant McGregor expressed thanks for the assistance given by members of the party.
THE INQUEST. The inquest was opened to-day before the coroner, Mr W. H. Frith. Sergeant McGregor represented the police.
Francis Newmarch (clerk, Dunedin), gave evidence of identification. He then related the finding of the bodies and the extent of their injuries. In witness’s opinion the three deceased would not have been allowed to proceed up the slope had they not been roped. He considered that every precaution was taken, and that Mount Trent was no more dangerous than any other peak in New Zealand. Edwards and Divers were members of the New Zealand Alpine Club, and were very experienced climbers. Everything possible was done to avoid accident.
The Coroner; Is it possible to avoid such accidents?
Witness: The only way to avoid such calamities is not to climb mountains.
Walter Scott Gilkison, accountant, Dunedin, said the objective of the party was Mount Trent, and the approach to it was made over a considerable glacier which formed the main course of the Huxley River. Witness stated that when near the slope he saw a boulder slide down the mountain side about 20 feet, and then strike a projecting rock. The stone crossed further over the slope, and appeared to take a bound through the air just in front of the second man in the fifth party, comprising the three deceased. Edwards attempted to steady them, and drove his ice axe deep into the snow, but it was apparently wrenched from his hold. His axe remained firmly embedded in the snow, and the three men slid rapidly down the slope to the snowfield about 1,500 ft below. Witness considered that the accident was occasioned by the boulder becoming dislodged and falling in the path of the climbers. In his opinion every precaution was taken to prevent accident.
James Hogg Gilkison, accountant (Dunedin), said he was one of a party of 17 who left Dunedin for the Huxley Gorge on March 25. The following day they left Lake Ohau to pack into North Huxley to establish a camp. On Saturday, March 27, 10 of the party left the camp to climb Mount Trent in fine weather. As soon as the glacier beneath the mountain was reached, the party was roped up, with two experienced climbers on each rope.
There were five independent ropes, the three deceased being on one rope by themselves. Technically speaking, the climb was not a severe one, the distance from the glacier to the summit being about 2,000 ft, but the face was snow-clad and steep, with rock outcrops. The various parties were more or less using the same route, using steps made by the leading party, and at the time of the accident the party comprising the three deceased was last on the slope.
THE DISLODGED BOULDER. When witness was on the summit of a ridge about 50ft from the top he saw a boulder about the size of a man’s head rolling down the slope. He had no idea where the boulder came from. On occasions boulders were loosened by the elements on peaks, but usually in falling they followed defined courses. For this reason they were usually avoided. The boulder in question seemed to take an unexplainable swing, and swung in the direction of the deceased Stevenson, who was the middle man on the rope. It did not actually hit him, but he appeared to step back to avoid it. Deceased Divers was leading on the rope at this stage, and the unexpected pull seemed to take him out of the step. As far as witness could see, both Divers and Stevenson commenced to slide down the slope simultaneously. Deceased Edwards, apparently noticing this, drove his axe into the snow to get an anchorage, and was able to stop them momentarily, but the momentum of the others was too great, and he was unable to hold them, being pulled out of his step. The three climbers slid down the slope ou to the glacier, approximately 200 ft below. Witness had a good view of them all the time during the fall, and saw them come into contact with jutting rocks. After they came to rest there was no sign of movement.
IMMEDIATE RESCUE EFFORT. Immediately afterwards Russell, Edwards, and W. G. McClymont roped up and went down the slope as quickly as possible. To witness’s knowledge both Edwards and Divers had done a considerable amount of climbing in high altitudes over a period of several years, including ascents of Mount Cook, Mount Haidinger, and numerous other peaks in the Cook and Western Otago districts. On Sunday, the party set about the task of taking the bodies down off the glacier. This proved a very difficult task, and by evening they had managed to get the bodies through the top of the ice fall. Towards the end of the following day, they got the bodies down as far as the snowfield, at the head of the valley. Wednesday and Thursday were taken up in bringing the bodies down the Huxley, where pack horses were waiting under Mr Preston’s (Glen Lion) charge to bring the remains on to Hopkin’s Valley. From the time the news of the accident became known, the Otago and North Otago sections of the New Zealand Alpine Club, with which a large number of the party were associated, worked in conjunction with the police in the organisation of everything required. He was satisfied that the time taken to bring out the bodies could not have been shortened.
The Coroner (summing up) said he was satisfied that the accident was purely misadventure. The universal feeling and sympathy for the relatives had been exemplified by the manner in which the members had worked to bring out the bodies. The police had rendered invaluable service, and also many others, and all would appreciate their endeavours.
The verdict was that the three deceased met their death as the result of injuries received from sliding down the mountain side, the accident being caused by misadventure. -Evening Star, 2/4/1937.
SCENE OF TRAGEDY IN THE MOUNTAINS
A recent picture of Mount Trent, on which, Messrs Edwards, Divers and Stevenson lost their lives. The distance between the two crosses marks the extent of their fall. -Otago Daily Times, 2/4/1937.
ALPINE CLUB
MT. TRENT TRAGEDY
Admiration "of the magnificent manner in which the difficult and arduous task of bringing out the bodies of the unfortunate victims of the Mount Trent tragedy, had been effected," was expressed at the recent meeting of the New Zealand Alpine Club. Wellington Section. Motions of sympathy with the relatives of those who had lost their lives, and with the members of the Otago and North Otago Sections of'the Club, were passed. The annual report of the.Alpine Club also refers to the irreparable loss caused by the deaths of the three young men, George Edwards, "Don" Divers, and Roy Stevenson, and to the tragic death as a result of 14 days' exposure on Mt. Bogong, Victoria, Australia, of a keen supporter of skiing and mountaineering, and an associate member of the club, Mr. C. J. M. Cole.
Mr. H. K. Douglas, who presided at the annual meeting of the Wellington Section of the Alpine Club, referred to the rapidly-increasing popularity of mountaineering. The Alpine Club roll stood at 320 members, and associates. He thanked the lecturers, who had delivered a number of excellent addresses during the year. The finances were in a healthy state.
The following officers for the year were elected:— Chairman, Mr. H. K. Douglas; vice-chairman, Mr. L. K. Wilson; secretary, Mr. H. J. Newberry; treasurer, Mr. R. D. Greenwood; committee, Mess. P. C. Weenink and G. P. Rayward, Dr. J. D. Willis and Professor J. Williams. -Evening Post, 16/4/1937.
IN MEMORIUM
DIVERS. EDWARDS.—In loving memory of Symon Donald Divers and George Machan Edwards, killed In Alpine accident, Mount Trent, March 27, 1937. “The mountains can sometimes be stern with those who love them.” -Otago Daily Times, 26/3/1938.
Northern Cemetery, Dunedin.
Andersons Bay Cemetery, Dunedin. DCC photo.
A SPLENDID GESTURE
ECHO OF MOUNT TRENT TRAGEDY
MEMORIAL CAIRN ERECTED
Adventure greeted those members of the Otago section of the New Zealand Alpine Club who travelled to the Lake Ohau district at Easter. The intention of the trip was the erecting of a cairn in memory of Roy Stevenson, of Oamaru, Symon Donald Divers and George Machin Edwards, of Dunedin, who lost their lives on the slopes of Mount Trent, Easter Sunday, 1937. The party numbered 35 in all, and included the members of the unfortunate climbing party of last year, as well as several friends.
The heavy rain which fell on the Thursday before Easter caused flooding of all creeks and streams in the district. The procession of motor cars was continually held up, and the crossing of the swollen waterways frequently presented a serious problem. On more than one occasion members of the party had to pull the cars across the streams. On other places parts of the roadway were washed out, and considerable time was occupied in rebuilding these washouts and making the road safe for the unusual string of traffic. It was necessary for some of the cars at least to get through to the proposed site of the cairn, as it would have been impossible to carry bags of cement several miles up the valley in the deluge that was falling.
Despite the unfavourable conditions a start was instantly made to erect the cairn. The site chosen was in a clearing in the forest clothing the hillside, and about 10ft above the floor of the valley. A good deal of work, which was in the hands of two capable stonemasons, had to be carried out under the protection of a tarpaulin. The party was keen, and worked hard to collect suitable rocks, which were outlined in position by black lime mortar.
The cairn was erected in slightly less than two days. Immediately upon completion a dedication service was conducted by the Rev. James Crozier, who had been a member of the ill-fated party. In an impressive ceremony Mr Crozier made feeling references to the lives and characters of the three young men, and paid a tribute to the generous actions that had made the erection of the cairn possible. He said also that the tragedy had occurred on the anniversary of another tragedy — the death of Captain Scott and his companions in the Polar wastes in 1912.
The cairn stands 5ft high, and carries a bronze tablet, the inscription of which is:—
In loving memory of Roy Stevenson, Don. Divers, George Edwards, who lost their lives in an attempt on Mount Trent, March 27, 1937. Erected by members of their climbing party and friends. -Evening Star, 22/4/1938.
Monument Hut, Hopkins Valley, Lake Ohau region. Photo: Department of Conservation.
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