OKURU NEWS.
(From A Correspondent.) FEBRUARY 9.
Two lady tourists made the tour from Waiho to Wanaka via Haast Pass last week. They were both delighted with the magnifieent scenery they passed through and considered this route would in time become one of New Zealand’s most valuable scenic and tourist routes. A young man, a native of Scotland, attempted the trip on his own on two occasions but without success. On the first occasion he had the misfortune to get on the wrong track and while crossing an old rotten culvert his horse went through and he had to obtain assistance from the Haast to remove it. The second attempt was made in wet weather and he was faced with swollen rivers and had to return to the Clarke hut where he was compelled to remain until the floods abated. Unfortunately he turned his horse loose and was unable to catch it and was compelled to return to the Haast on foot, a distance of 33 miles and without food for about two days. He lost his camera and saddle on this route and points out the necessity of an accommodation house midway between Haast and Upper Wanaka, a two days ride. There is at present a progressive movement a foot offering better treatment to tourists and others using this delightful route.
Mr Eric James also passed from West to East via this route on business bent, returning on the 12th inst. Mr James predicts a large increase in tourist traffic through this route in the very near future. Otago residents are realising the great importance of the opening up of this track to connect with Waiho. This would enable tourists to make a complete round trip of the island. While in Dunedin Mr James became acquainted with the facts concerning the missing party at Martin’s Bay and received the assistance of Mr Steel (secretary) and Mr McDonald (President)' of the Otago Expansion League in securing an official enquiry and search with the result that a search is to he made from Westland via Okuru and Otago via Glenorchy. It is to be hoped our fears for their safety are without grounds. Mr J. Black (Dunedin) leaves with his party for Okuru about the 8th of next month where he intends to stalk deer in the Upper Okuru Valley. Mr Black is an enthusiastic sportsman and has several good heads on exhibition at the Dunedin Exhibition. This will he, the first occasion deer has been stalked in the Okuru district. Mr Black will he the guest of Mr Eric James. -Hokitika Guardiam, 15/2/1926.
MOUNTAIN AND FLOOD.
TRIP TO WEST COAST.
IN SEARCH OF LARGE DEER HEADS.
OTAGO SPORTSMEN DISAPPOINTED.
Two well-known Dunedin sportsmen, Mr J. R. Wilson and Mr John Black, have just returned from a trip to South Westland. They went to the coast with the hope of coming across some good deer heads. Their objective was Okuru, 200 miles south of Hokitika, and then into the Southern Alps. They found, however, that only a travelling Otago stag or two had penetrated this country for its winter quarters. These stags were in great order. Though the party were not successful in their search for deer, they had a most adventurous trip, at times certainly not without the element of personal risk.
Messrs Wilson and Black left Dunedin by motor car on March 21 for Pembroke, and next day reached the Makarora, at the head of Lake Wanaka. Here they were met by Guide Eric James, nicknamed “Eric the Fearless," and Guide Jim Buckley, on his good grey mare Polly and with his wonderful dog Joe. Bucklev was Lord Jellicoe’s guide when the popular Governor-General got his big deer head, the pride of the Wembley Exhibition. On Tuesday, March 23, the quartet headed for their objective, and at once became acquainted with a typical West Coast drizzle. -Otago Daily Times, 24/4/1926.
The Guardian And Evening Star, with which is incorporated the West Coast Times. WEDNESDAY, MAY 12, 1926. A TOURIST ROUTE.
A good deal of information was afforded in our Monday’s issue of the tourist route possible between Westland and Otago by way of the Haast Pass. Mr Eric James, of Okuru, is interesting himself greatly in the matter, and has afforded much general information on the subject. The route is a well-known one easily negotiable and it is remarkable that it has not found more favour with both the authorities and the holiday-makers who are fond of tramping or horse-back outings. The Haast route presents not any serious difficulties to deter those who enjoy a trip through very interesting country. It is remarkable that the Milford Sound walk has found such favor but if half the attention was given to the Haast Pass journey, it would he a far more popular trip. The round trip from province to province covers very diversified territory, and presents such a variety of scenery that it would be difficult to outrival the trip from a scenic point of view. Those who enjoy camping out will find huts at convenient stages, so that there need he no holding back where folk are looking for fresh localities to conquer. While there are huts at various stages, it would be very convenient were a permanent camping place available at a half-way point, where tourists could stop over in comfort, and spend their time in day excursions or explorations into the country round about. The Bourke Flat presents an ideal spot for such a resort, and it is to be hoped Mr James will be encouraged to go ahead with his project and establish a tourist log cabin in the back country, which presents such an ideal place for the many tourists coming to New Zealand. who delight in these camping out holidays The far south of Westland is all too little known as regards its natural attractions, but gradually it is coming into its own. and men of the enterprise and perseverance of Mr James’ stamp, will help to bring it more and more under public notice. The scenery is outstanding as all can vouch for who have travelled by the road route to the far south. The Haast route into Otago is of very easy grade, and presents no difficulties to the average traveller — many of whom have made the journey without a guide. But it is wiser, especially in the matter of saving time, and avoiding difficult fords in the numerous river crossings, to take a guide. It is possible to cross either way in the day, but- for those Who wish to enjoy the novel scenery, as well as the pleasures of camping out, the trip divided into two days can be accomplished with jess discomfort, especially for those not used to the saddle. It is to be hoped the present move to popularise the route, as also the side excursions to other notable scenic places, will be well supported from this quarter. It is necessary to impress the authorities, and to that end it is for the people to see that the promise of the Minister of Lands to travel the route will not be overlooked. South Westland is virtually an unknown territory, and its future with proper handling should disclose developments which will he something of a revelation. As a very important section of Westland, the southern half of the district might engage more public attention, and to that end any effort to advance its interests or remove its isolation should have very general support. The first and most immediate effort to help the place should come from ourselves. -Hokitika Guardian, 12/5/1926.
Mr Eric James wires that he is setting out to investigate a track route from Okuru to Lakes Wakatipu and Te Anau in Otago. Anyone wishing to join in the exploration would be welcome. The route proposed would cover much new country and the trip would be a very interesting one for those bent on back-block explorations. The scenic grandeur on such a trip would be most probably beyond compare. -Hokitika Guardian, 2/7/1926.
OKURU NOTES
Mr and Mrs Eric James are leaving to take up their permanent residence in the Cold Lake district. During the past two years Mr James has been occupied in promoting tourist traffic, and it is for the betterment of such traffic that he is making this move, after eight years’ continual residence in Westland. Mr James predicts, in spite of the several obstacles, a considerable increase of tourist traffic from Otago to the Westland resorts next summer. Mr James still has interests within the province, and proposes to utilise considerable grazing country in the Haast Valley from his new district.
Mr Wm. O'Leary has returned from town. -Grey River Argus, 25/5/1927.
A TOURIST ROUTE.
LAKES HAWEA AND WANAKA TO FRANZ JOSEF via HAAST PASS.
FIRST STAGE.
By Eric James.
The Haast Pass has not yet enjoyed the popularity that is merited by it, but thanks to the progressive spirit of the proprietors of the Dunedin-Wanaka motors, who have in recent years established a daily service from both Dunedin and Invercargill, the opportunity is now presented to tourists of making the trip from Lakes Hawea and Wanaka to the Franz Josef Glacier by this route. In addition, the establishment of a base depot of the White Star horse service at Makarora (at the head of Lake Wanaka, where arrangements can be made for guides and horses, provides facilities that nave been lacking in the past to those desirous of making this trip, which can now be done in six days from Pembroke inclusive of the day taken by launch up the lake and car to the accommodation house. Those wishing to do so can commence their trip from the foot of Lake Hawea, following the bridle track along the shores of both Hawea and Wanaka Lakes to Makarora. The regular launch service days on Wanaka are Mondays and Thursdays during the summer. Another boat is being now fitted up to run on different days. It is understood also that another accommodation house will shortly be erected close to the original boarding house, which was successfully conducted by the late Mrs Ewing for many years.
The Haast Pass track offers perhaps the largest variety of vegetation and scenic attractions to be found on any one tourist route in the Dominion. It is fast becoming known, and is becoming popular, especially amongst those accustomed to riding. Travellers making the trip without a guide should have in their possession a modern map, and should obtain local directions and particulars with regard to river fords for each stage of the journey. Unless the traveller has had some previous experience of mountain and bush tracks and of fording rivers, this trip should not be commenced without a guide. A whole tour has often been spoilt through some accident which would never have happened had a guide been in charge of the party. Several persons who have lost their way while without food and been exposed to bad weather were novices who undertook the trip with little idea of the direction of the track.
After leaving Makarora accommodation house, the trail is a well-formed vehicle road. It soon leaves the bleak, fern-covered hills and enters the forest area. An early start should be made, especially if the Clarke hut, distant 35 miles, is to be the destination. The Makarora Valley road is followed up the right bank of the river until the remains of an old sawmill are seen. There the first bush' track is entered. Fifteen minutes’ travelling and a small flat is reached. There should be no difficulty in finding the entrance of the new section of bush track, which is nearly distance of the first section. Another flat, much larger than the last, is crossed and the bush again entered. On leaving this third section of bush, the traveller must make for the Kiwi Flat, on the right over the riverbed gravel, and proceed to within a few hundred yards from the top of it. The river is crossed by a good ford, and is followed on the left side for some seven minutes till Davis’s Flat is reached, the highest in the Makarora Valley.
Right at the top of this flat the track enters the bush and commences its climb to the saddle. Half a mile further the Fish River is forded and the climb commences in earnest. Those riding should make sure that all girths are tight before climbing. Ladies who are a little nervous would do well to walk up for 10 minutes. When the horses are taking sharp inclines the rider should not on any account lie back and pull on the reins. They should sit well forward, leave the reins loose, and grip the mane with one hand a little in front of the wither. One nasty, steep face will be noticed some 15 minutes from the Fish. It was at this point that a visiting doctor made his sudden descent and had a miraculous escape, while his horse was killed. The track here is now quite solid, and there is no danger. In 20 minutes the pass should be reached, below the timber line (1847ft). A large tree has fallen across the track, but a rough track has been cut round it. A few yards further on, on the left side of the track will be found an iron trig peg, which marks the boundary between Otago and Westland. The trail now descends gradually into Mule Valley, the highest valley in the Haast Valley, so named on account of having been the grazing place for mules used by Sir Julius von Haast and his party when the pass was found and explored. The river has to be forded many times, but it carries little water. Care should, however, be taken if there is a fresh in the river.
On the right towers Mount Brewster, always snow-topped. It is over 8000ft, and possesses a large glacier of the same name. Just before the creek that runs from it is reached the snowfields and a portion of the glacier can be seen. I am of opinion a track could be cut to give access to the glacier at very little cost. It is my intention to explore this possibility in the spring. Before reaching the Brewster Greek a small gorge is encountered, but a rough track will be found on the right. The traveller must be warned, immediately upon emerging, not to enter the track over the river, but to keep to the riverbed. This section of the original track is at present in very bad order. Further down another small gorge is encountered, but this time a track will be seen on the left. At Dinner Flat, the next flat down, the track will be found on the left at the bottom of the flat. This flat was once noted for its luxuriant growth of white clover, but since the arrival of deer not a particle of feed is to be seen. The track now passes through huge boulders of broken country. The traveller can see the gates of the Haast, under which the river roars, although that is not visible. A little below it the river is crossed, and the track rises slightly. Far below roars the river as it forces its way over and through enormous rocks. The track now winds down to where the Wills River enters the Haast. A bridge spans it, and most travellers stop here to get a few snapshots, which can be taken from many angles. On the lower side of the bridge a track leads down to the river, where some good views have been taken. There is a rough blazed track up the Wills Gorge, at the head of which a nice open valley is reached. Trampers seeking new fields could make this trip, following the river to its head and passing over into the Hunter Valley, which drains into Lake Hawea. It would, however, be rather too strenuous for the majority of tramper.
The descent from the Well’s Bridge to the Burke is a little over two miles. Several tracks will be noticed where horses have been rescued after having slipped over the side when attempting to scramble over fallen trees, etc. A number of young horses being driven to the Landsborough were lost at this place a few years ago. All were killed in the fall. Twenty minutes before the Burke hut is reached a fine waterfall will be seen on the opposite side of the gorge. The Burke branch of the Haast enters a little before the hut is reached, but is not seen from the track. It is entered only during the stalking season. Prospectors have on a few occasions penetrated this country, and some specimens of rich quartz have been taken out. As a result two men were subsidised to explore for a reef, but the younger of the two was drowned opposite the Burke hut, and the venture lapsed.
Trampers often choose to stay at the Burke hut, but it is at present not so convenient for riders, as there is no fenced paddock, but grass is plentiful. The site has recently been secured for an accommodation house, but it is considered a bit early for such a venture. Shortly after a departure from the hut, the now united waters of the Haast, Wills, and Burke have to be forded, It is a good ford, but trampers will find it up to their waist in the deepest part. If there is any extra water in it, it is prudent to make up stream, on the ford, reaching the bank 15 to 20 yards above the signpost. After the track has been crossed again, the bush is entered 200 yards to the left, and beyond it a large grassy flat is crossed. This is stocked with well-bred Hereford cattle and scores of deer can be seen grazing on it in the evening time. Near the bottom of the track the river has again to be crossed. The ford in this instance is not so good as the last, but it is marked by signposts. Trampers who find rather much water in the river can continue down on the same side. At the edge of the bush an old track will be picked up, but it will be found to be much overgrown.
After crossing, the rider passes down the Wilson Flat, keeping in line with the signposts. The river is recrossed again by a good ford, and then it is necessary to make for the signpost at the foot of the hill. Here a track enters and climbs round the Clarke Bluff, from which some good views can be taken, looking north, From which direction flows the largest branch of the Haast, the Landsborough. It rises some 80 miles inland in the mountains at the back of the Hermitage. The Clarke River, a clear blue little river, also flows from this direction, entering the Landsborough two miles up. This clear little river is ideally suited for trout, and a movement is being made to get it stocked. The lower Haast is well stocked, but the first have not penetrated this far inland, probably by reason of the cold snow waters of the Landsborough. On a clear, sunny day the Hooker Glacier, from which flows the Clarke River, can be distinctly seen. The snow-capped peak standing out prominent from its lesser neighbours can also be viewed on a clear day.
Gold was struck up the Landsborough in the early days, but was soon abandoned, being not thought sufficiently payable, and the locality being so inaccessible. The descent from the Clarke Bluff should be made just after passing under a large overhanging rock. It is very steep and it is advisable to dismount, especially if the mounts are not cruppered. The balance of the day’s journey, though only about one and a-half miles, takes nearly an hour, as it is over stony riverbed. A signpost will be seen in the distance on the riverbed. Once this is reached the traveller must turn to the left bank to another post, where a track leads to the paddock. He must always shut the gates. There is good grazing here for horses in the summer time. The hut, which is a newly-erected Government hut, is situated a little off the track on the left, but can be easily seen. It is a two-roomed building lined with ruberoid, and contains bunks for eight and room on the floor for several more. A lean-to at the back is built for saddlery. A track to the left of the hut leads to a creek.
When leaving travellers should always observe the unwritten law of the bush — leave plenty of dry wood for the next comers. They will be blessed should their successors arrive in the wet or dark. There are few mosquitoes in this hut. Mount McFarlane, also over 8000ft, towers above and in front of the hut. -Otago Daily Times, 29/8/1927.
A TOURIST ROUTE.
LAKES HAWEA AND WANAKA TO FRANZ JOSEF via HAAST PASS.
SECOND STAGE.
By Eric James.
An early start should be made on the second stage, for though the distance is only 25 miles, the unaccustomed rider will feel stiff from the previous days riding. The track is picked up 200 yards from the front of the hut, and the traveller passes through a fine piece of bush, which is especially appreciated on a fine summer morning, when it is often well stocked with native pigeons. In a quarter of an hour the track opens out to a riverbed. The next entrance to the bush track is marked by a board nailed to a tree. An overspreading apple tree is reached, and just before it the track branches again to the riverbed. There is no advantage in keeping to the track beyond the apple tree. One advantage from going down the river is that a good view can be obtained of a waterfall on the left, and 300 yards below the next grassy flat the track is again picked up, where a creek enters the river, which at this point is running hard against the bank. A rider will notice the ford, but if there is a fresh in the river it should not be attempted. In that event, by returning to the bottom of the last flat, an old track will be picked up in the bush. Those fording the river must take care not to cut off too short, as there is deep water above the creek along the bank. Once below the creek the track is easily picked up, and continues in the bush for several miles. It emerges opposite a cataract known as the Roaring Billy. The riverbed here is narrow, and the water is deep and lacks current. For several miles, roughly two hours’ walking, the traveller proceeds down the open riverbed. There are a few signposts. A large gap in the ranges will be seen on the left, from which flows the creek of the same name. It rises very quickly with rain, but goes down almost as speedily. After heavy rains the crossing of the creek on the riverbed is not safe on account of soft sands, and the wiser plan under these conditions is to cross it in the bush. If a backwater is crossed near a point where a tiny creek enters a few yards from the main creek, and its bed is followed an old track will be found which leads the Gap Creek. It is rough and bouldery, and a few moments should be taken choosing the crossing. Once across, the riverbed is again taken, and flats are crossed till a small signpost is seen near where the river sweeps round to the bank. This section of bush track claims much praise on account of its luxuriant growth, including high fern trees and several varieties of ground ferns.
Eventually a fenced paddock is reached, at the end of which will be found a gate with a creek flowing just beyond it. This is a suitable place for “boiling the billy,” while the horses munch the green grass. Those who are so inclined can take a swim in the creek if the water is suitable. Upon passing out of the gate, the track, once again through the bush, is found just across the creek. It winds round the Thomas Bluff. On the top some good views, looking up the valley, can be obtained. The Thomas River enters opposite, flowing from the north. On leaving the bluff, more flats are crossed. At the lower end a creek is encountered, and care should be taken to select the crossing well up. When the crossing has been effected the track is again taken, its lower part winding round the “Big Bluff.” From the Big Bluff to Grassy Creek Bluff occupies the best part of an hour. The open riverbed is taken until a few hundred yards before a small bluff is reached. Slip rails will be found here, and a grassy track leading to the left at the entrance of the next bush track. After the visitor has passed through the rails a deep creek is crossed, which often holds travellers up should heavy rain be falling.
After a little over an hour’s ride over a well-formed track the Haast telephone office is reached. Another 10 minutes brings the traveller to the farmhouse, where accommodation is provided. The continuation of the track brings the traveller to Okuru Settlement, Jackson Bay, Cascade and to Martin’s Bay in Otago, which connects the Hollyford track. This track in turn provides the connections with the numerous tourist tracks in the southern lake districts, as described in Mr George M. Moir’s guide book, which has been issued by the Otago Expansion League. The route from Cascade to Martin’s Bay is rough and ill-defined, yet a very interesting trip could be made over. Any spare time on hand while at Haast can be devoted to trout fishing. Some good brown trout have been taken in the stream.
THIRD STAGE.
The third and longest stage should be commenced as early as possible in the day. Within this long stretch there are no permanent residents, but private and Government huts are available, at intervals. Many vain attempts have been made by tourists, unaccustomed to riding to reach the Matihati farm house in one day. The distance is over 60 miles, all over rough, hilly track, and it is beyond the ability of the average traveller to accomplish this. For this reason it should not be attempted. The best plan is to carry a tent and pitch camp at Jimmy's Creek, near the beautiful Paringa Lake.
After the Haast farm house has been left the main Haast River has to be crossed. In the summer time it is seldom fordable, and advice should be obtained from the resident ferryman, who is subsidised to see travellers safely over. Even when the river is fordable I advise people unaccustomed to rivers to get the ferryman to go across with them and to point out the entrance of the track on the far side. The track takes a northerly direction and skirts the bush facing the sea Two hours’ riding brings the traveller to the mouth of the Maori River, where th© track turns inland. The Maori and the Haast are well stocked with paradise ducks. Blue herons, bitterns, black swan, and other waterfowl can often be seen along the edge of the lagoons at the mouth of the Maori.
Twenty minutes’ ride from the mouth brings one to the first ford. Unfortunately this is often unfordable for several days after wet weather. A track has, however, recently been cut further up to a wooden bridge, which spans the main river just above its junction with the Waiata, up which valley the trail continues. Those using the bridge will pick up the track on the opposite side. Those fording below must keep well up on the ford, thus avoiding the danger of getting into deep water, amongst some large snags. Five minutes should bring in sight a wash-out on the track, caused by river erosion. This necessitates crossing the river and recrossing it 100 yards up, after which the track is again picked up. Another mile and the river is once more crossed. The track can be picked up on the opposite side by following the telephone wire. About six miles from the coast the track, after passing an old hut and paddock, takes a sharp turn to the north and a nine mile climb down the Matakitaki Range is begun.
Half a mile from the top an open, sheer face is passed over by a narrow, loose, gravelly path. This place is known is Slippery Face, and certainly is correctly named, as after each fall of rain the roadman is liable to be employed for weeks at a stretch remaking and defining the track across it. The formation is loose, blue gravelly debris, and is continually slipping. All riders should dismount before crossing it. Ten minutes’ riding brings a good roadman’s hut in sight, situated on a saddle. The “billy” can be boiled here.
The next 10 miles are principally level, but contains some sharp turns as the track winds its way around the steep spurs of the Matakitaki range. It is a grand piece of combined forest and mountain scenery, and a great contrast is noticed between the vegetation and that seen on the first stage of the journey. Deer are just beginning to make their presence known in this country. After crossing the Maori Saddle, the track commences its long descent in a zigzag fashion to the Blue River, which is crossed by a good timber bridge. It takes nearly two hours to make the descent. A few yards above the bridge stands the Blue River hut erected by the Government. It is a fair camping site, but mosquitoes are sometimes a nuisance. An endless fight with these annoying insects at this hut is described in Maude Morland’s “Through South Westland.” Those camping with horses should put up the rails at the bridge, and also up the track some 400 yards away. Good views can be taken here of the river, which is rough and “gorgy.” It takes over two hours to reach the Paringa Lake. The track passes through high timber and crosses numerous creeks, all of which are serious obstacles in wet weather.
Jimmy’s Creek will be distinguished by the presence of a little clearing. The creek is in two streams, which flow into the lake half a mile through the bush. It will be necessary to fix up a block on the track south of the creek. While on the other tide, after some 10 minutes’ walk, a gate has to be closed. A few hundred yards from the gate the beautiful Paringa Lake can be viewed. Most tourists would be inclined to linger at this pretty spot, especially if there were a boat available. There are excellent brown trout in this lake. They were liberated by Captain Bollons many years ago. Ducks and swan are also plentiful. The writer, hopes, a few years hence, to see an up-to-date accommodation house for tourists on the shores of this fine lake. -Otago Daily Times, 31/8/1927.
A TOURIST ROUTE.
LAKES HAWEA AND WANAKA TO FRANZ JOSEF via HAAST PASS.
FOURTH STAGE.
By Eric James.
An hour from Paringa Lake will suffice the tourist to reach the Paringa House, which is a private building, but a public telephone office. The house is not occupied, but messages can be sent through to the Maintain office. This hut would have made a good stage, but the owners object to tourists using the place. It is surrounded with good green pastures. Another mile and the Paringa River is reached. The ford is fairly good, but the river carries a lot of muddy-coloured water after rain. If the rivers are high it would be advisable to ring up Mahitahi office and inquire particulars of both the Paringi and Mahitahi fords.
The valley is noted for the presence of many varieties of minerals. A first-class steam coal is to be found in quantity, but nothing has yet been done to develop it. Galena, stibnite, kerosene shale, mica, lithographic stone, gold, granite, and marble have all been found here.
Just as the riverbed is reached a new track turns off to the right and passes through a gate. The river now flows on the far side of the bed almost opposite the approach. The fords often change, and to give particulars of the present ford would perhaps be misleading a few months hence. The best plan for the traveller is to ring up for advice. A sideling track is picked on the far side, and two hours will bring the Mahitahi riverbed in view. A Government hut is situated a little north of the Paringa River. It would be useful in the event of being held up with floods. As in the case of the last river, the direction of the telephone line is confusing to travellers seeking the ford. The ford is about 200 yards below it, and is crossed at a fork in the river. A track will be picked up on the opposite flat, but one which enters the bush on the left is to be avoided. The correct track passes farm buildings, which are situated on the left, and soon after the farmhouse comes within sight. The track passes on the left of it, passing through some fine pastures. It is a pretty, peaceful farming spot.
The track, which is now a well-formed vehicle road, enters some fine bush and high timber, and eventually reaches the sea beach. A formed road will be noticed on the right as the traveller comes within sight of the sea and river month. This road must however, be avoided as it is not completed, the explanation being that it traverses a Maori sacred burial ground, and so it remains “hung up.” The trail follows the sea beach for some distance, and horse and dray tracks will probably be available to point out where the road is again sought. It continues to follow the sea beach north for some distance, until eventually it turns inland. A look back by the traveller, prior to his leaving the beach, will disclose Bruce Bay and landing with the track faint, yet distinctly winding round the siding to it, while to the left will be seen sheds used for storage when landing.
A local ketch is subsidised by the Lands and Postal Departments to land goods here for the few scattered settlers. The Government lighthouse boat also calls three or four times a year.
The trail passes through high timber broken by sour raupo swamps, inland from which is a deep lagoon known as Lake Kiai. An hour and a-half's ride brings the traveller to the Bruce Bay settlement, where most of the inhabitants arc half-castes. Refreshments can usually he obtained at a farmhouse just before the Makawhio River reach (or Jacob’s River, as it is known locally) is reached. Most of the residents are descendants of the original settlers who occupied the land in the gold rush period. Those who think of pushing on to Karangarua accommodation house would act prudently in ringing up and advising that they would arrive towards evening. This can be done from the farmhouse already mentioned.
Jacob’s River is crossed by a good stationary ford. It also boasts a wire suspension footbridge. Half an hour and then the Manakaiaua River is crossed, while another two hours brings the wide Karangarua riverbed in sight. This last-mentioned river, with Cook’s, is the only serious obstacle to the institution of a regular motor service to Mahitahi. Most of the land between Jacob’s River and the Karangarua is Native reserve, and contains some excellent milling timber. It is worthy of note the Karangarua rises near the head of the Landsborough, which was seen on the first stage of the journey. The Copland Pass track to the Hermitage follows the north branch of the Karangarua. The fords in this locality often change, and it is advisable, when at Bruce Bay, to ring the ferryman at Karangarua and ask him to ride out and meet the traveller. Frequently several streams have to bo crossed, well up the valley. It is a wide bed and the crossing of it will occupy the best part of an hour. The telephone line should not be followed. It is hard to pick up the road after crossing. Ten minutes will be spent in reaching the accommodation house, which lies to the right and is accessible by a by-road. It is nicely situated, with a mountain background. The slopes are crimson with rata blossom in the season. The Copland track branches in front of the house to the left. Those who have sufficient time to spare will find it well occupied in making a day’s ride to the hot springs, which are on the main Copland track and are accessible by an interesting rugged mountain track. The springs, three in number, are surrounded by sub-alpine vegetation, and are only about 50 yards from the roaring snow water from the glaciers. A good Government hut containing three rooms, blankets, and utensils, is situated alongside the springs, and there is a good paddock for horses.
FIFTH AND FINAL STAGE.
If the rivers are high, as is often the case in summer time, it would be advisable for visitors to employ the proprietor of the accommodation house to accompany them over Cook’s River, about 12 miles distant. There is no person at the river who could point out the fords. It is perhaps the most dangerous river on the journey, being swift and muddy, as well as extremely cold. It is forded in many streams which are often deceptive in depth. It usually takes a full hour to cross the wide riverbed. It is desirable to make for the farthest telephone pole, where the road is again picked up. Those travelling without a guide should follow the most recent tracks across the riverbed, preferably dray tracks, and ascertain before entering where the tracks come out on the far side. Once more the telephone line is not to be used as a guide. Mount Cook can be seen on a fine day, and often makes itself felt, should the wind be blowing from the hills. The road passes up the valley through spacious pastures, stocked with sheep and Hereford cattle. Half way up the flat the well-known Fox Glacier gradually comes into full view. Upon arrival at the foot of the hills a track will be noticed, branching on tho left to the glacier.
At the junction an up-to-date accommodation house is bring erected. It will become the terminus of the service cars from Hokitika. The road connecting Waiho and this point has been described as the most beautiful motor road in the world. With the recent completion of the Waiho bridge, it is rapidly becoming a very popular run for motorists. In the first month after the bridge was traversable, though it was not completed, over 100 cars crossed over to Weheka. It is a distance of only 17 miles to the Glacier Hotel, yet it occupies a good six hours to accomplish it. From the Fox track junction the road rises to the Cook saddle, descending abruptly to the gorgy Waieupicupi River, which is crossed by a good traffic bridge. The whole mountain sides are a veritable blaze of glory during the height of the season. Native pigeon and small birds are surprisingly abundant. From each of the three saddles the land crossed between Weheka and Fox Glacier some excellent views can be obtained looking down at the lower stages of the road winding in and out of the gullies in the forest below. Leaving the Waieupicupi the road rises gradually to the second saddle, and descends as gradually to the Oemerua Valley, where a good ford has been made over this small river. There is a Government hut with good grazing for those who wish to spend a night in the mountains. Another gradual climb and a third saddle is crossed, followed by a long winding descent down into the Waiho Flat. A shallow stream is crossed at the foot, and the visitor is now within an hour’s ride from the world-famed Franz Josef Glacier. After an isolated hill has been passed on the left the glacier will come in sight, and then the hotel, on high ground, on the other side of the river. The river is similar to Cook's, but is in a defined bed, and one stream is crossed by an excellent suspension traffic bridge. Another five minutes and the traveller dismounts at the Glacier Hotel, where guides and equipment are available for excursions on the ice. Service cars run daily to Hokitika and other Westland resorts. -Otago Daily Times, 6/9/1927.
POSSIBILITIES OF HAAST PASS.
TO THE EDITOR. Sir, — It is amusing to note your correspondent’s (Mr Norman) modified tone as evidenced in last week’s Witness on the above subject. In former letters he maintains the Haast Pass offers no opportunities not only for commerce, but for tourists. He now considers the Tourist Department has made a grave oversight by not mentioning the Haast Pass in its publications. What a contradiction! Yet he still claims to be still “within the mark." Mr Norman rambles at some some length on matters which have little or no bearing on the subject under discussion. He asserts that when writing about railways I should be advised to ascertain profits, etc., on the Central railway. But I would like to know what bearing this has on the subject, even had I, as he says, discussed railways.
Even if Mr Norman’s estimates of cost of road construction were correct (though his mileage is not), what is such an amount in comparison with the inestimable advantages that would follow its achievement? There is plenty of inferior coal being mined, but how long could these compete with the first class steam coal to be found in quantity lying undeveloped in southern Westland? For the special information of Mr Norman I will give the distances from Haast to Jackson’s Bay, the scene of a one-time settlement: —
Haast to Okuru 9 miles
Okuru to Waitoto ... 9 miles
Waitoto to Arawata ferry 6 miles
Arawata ferry to Jackson’s Bay ... 6 miles
If your persistent correspondent will add these figures he will have some difficulty in totalling nine miles.
It is purely sheer stubbornness to persist in stating the failure of this early settlement scheme having any bearing on development work on the Haast Pass region. Each settler was allotted 10 acres of maiden forest, mostly on a sour swamp. Could they possibly be expected to make a living? Therefore, how could the scheme become a success? Difficult road access had to be overcome in North and Central Westland in similar country. That country is now enjoying prosperity. Why not the south, which claims even superior natural resources?
In a nutshell, Mr Norman quotes numerous failures (in Otago chiefly) known to him during his long, and probably very useful, life, as being sufficient reasons why public money should not be expended in other and new directions where proved indications point to unlimited possibilities. Professor Park, in a letter to a friend of mine, predicts that the Red Hills (a mountainous region in Southern Westland and West Otago) will at some future date become the scene of considerable mining activity. Other geologists have reported similarly. In addition to vast scope for mining developments, large areas are ideally suited for dairying, and had road access been made it would have to-day been a miniature Taranaki. Timber is perhaps the most important asset, with its large belts of white pine, well suited for pulp manufacture and butter boxes. Water power exists in sufficient quantity to develop enormous industries. Large areas of flax lay undeveloped purely on account of there being no means of getting the fibre away. And scenic attractions beggar description. — I am, etc.,
Eric James. Makarora, Lake Wanaka, September 27 -Otago Witness, 4/10/1927.
OVER THE HAAST.
LAND OF POSSIBILITIES.
INCREASED INTEREST SOUGHT.
With the object of reviving the interest of the Otago Expansion League in the remote spaces beyond the head of Lake Wanaka, Mr Eric James, of Makaroro, and late of Okuru, guide, pioneer, and explorer, addressed members of the executive on Tuesday on the possibilities of that land of many waters.
Primarily, the need was a road, he said. The present access was only a bridle track of sorts, although a road which a motor could negotiate reached close to the side of the actual saddle of the Haast Pass. Beyond that the track was capable of easy extension to a width which would carry a car, which was really all that was needed. The law which demanded a chain-wide roadway did not operate in the shadow of the Southern Alps. Once across the divide the making of the road would not present great difficulties, and gravel could be had in superlative quality and untold quantity almost anywhere.
The cost of making the road to Okuru should not, according to Mr James, be great, as a stretch of seven miles along fairly steep hillsides presents the only difficulty, and the road to the western shore could be traversed with no more difficulty than the Kilmog. Sightseers would be the first to try out the new land, but the hunter and the fisherman would follow soon after, as both these devotees of the open spaces would find much to interest and employ.
There was a wealth of timber in the district through which the road would meander, and much of it was the prized and now somewhat scarce white pine. This prime butter-box material could be brought by road, as it could be cut economically into handling lengths, and the high price at which it now sold would compensate for the heavy transport charges.
Flax grew abundantly in these well-watered valleys, and this, too, lent itself by its lightness to road carriage. There was the lure of the metal-seeker, the gold prospector, the miner. From all reports the signs of mineral wealth were numerous, and New Zealanders should not turn their eyes to distant and alluring New Guinea, while a veritable Aladdin’s Cave of untouched treasure lay awaiting the industrious seeker within the confines of his own heaven-blest island.
A promise of a survey and an estimate of the cost of linking up the road system of Otago with that of Westland had been given by the Minister of Public Works this session to Messrs Seddon and Horn the members for the territory on either side, and when that was prepared and available the Minister would be urged to take such steps as might be necessary to give access to this long-hidden land of premise. -Otago Daily Times, 3/11/1927.
WEST COAST TOUR
DUNEDIN, Nov. 13 A correspondent writes:
A big tour has been definitely arranged to commence from Lake Wanaka on Xmas Day which will include the remote and little-known regions in the southernmost part of Westland. The party includes Messrs Tait M.A., Young, Black and Twigg from Dunedin, and possibly one or two gentlemen from both Christchurch and Wellington. Mr Eric James is in charge of provision and equipment arrangements and will pilot the party throughout the journey.
Stores are to he landed at Okuru and Big Bay by steamer. The trip is causing much interest in Dunedin, it being the first of its kind to penetrate this remote locality. All members of the party are experienced explorers, and have previously explored some remote regions in Fiordland. A journalist will he included in the party.
The party will return from Martin’s Bay by way of the Holly ford River. Homer Saddle, Lakes Howden and Wakatipu to Pembroke via the Crown Range. -Hokitika Guardian, 16/11/1927.
TOURIST ROUTES & TRAFFIC
The following report from Mr Eric James was received at last evening’s meeting of the Tourist Society:—
With the hope of keeping alive the possibilities of tourist traffic in Southern Westland I briefly outline particulars of traffic this season. Without doubt the traffic over the Haast Pass to Haast and Okuru and points in the Haast Valley has proved a record. The route as a tourist one has been given much publicity during the last three years and good results are just beginning to be felt.
There was a noticeable increase in traffic in connection with the red deer stalking season. Four eight horse teams of pack horses have been travelling over and back almost daily since 22nd February carrying equipment and provisions. Riding parties have also been numerous. The stalking season was however not a particularly good one from a stalkers point of view, no super-heads were taken out and very few extra good ones.
The most important tour made over the route was that made by the Government Publicity Department on which occasion a large and valuable collection of first class material was obtained. The party was favoured with good weather almost throughout the whole eight weeks trip.
Another important tour was made by Messrs Turner and Son, well known Wellington alpinists who made the first ascent of five prominent peaks in Westland and on the Main Divide, Hooker 8644ft, Brewster 8260ft, Castor 8256ft, and Pollux 8341ft. Messrs Eric Miller and Dr Bathgate were members of the party during the two latter climbs. There is still a large field for new ascents in this district and arrangements are now being made for further expeditions by Mr Turner, including the finding of a practical pass south of Haast Pass which should prove popular for trampers crossing over, returning via Haast Pass, thereby making a fine round trip.
Professor F. J. Turner, Otago University, with a party made a scientific exploration to the Cascade and Bed Hills with I understand very interesting results. The weather unfortunately interfered with their operations. It was at this period, January 10th to February 20th, that the Pass Track was severely damaged by tremendous floods, the worst ever experienced in this district. The Government promptly took the matter in hand placing two working parties at each end of the series of obstacles. Further damage must yet he expected the river having had an undermining effect on portions of the track.
The question of a spacious new hut where the present Burke Hut now stands is now under way and will add considerably to the popularity of the track. The lack of huts from the Haast northwards is sadly apparent and calls for attention, and until then will effect the numbers of through tourists to the Glaciers from Wanaka. A hut placed near the shores of Lake Paringa would be a boon not only to tourists as a camp over night but for anglers who would visit the lake were but accommodation available. It was only this season that anglers first tried the waters of this beautiful lake with minnow and line. Fish were found to be plentiful and of good quality. This party intends to return to spend more time fishing here next season.
The number of alpine trips made over the Graham Saddle, and Copeland Pass exceed all previous years while the opening up of old pack tracks, used in the days of the diggings, for riding trips are proving an added attraction at the Glacier resorts.
The traffic on Lake Wanaka has maintained its volume and another launch has been added to the present fleet. A second accommodation house has sprung up at Makaroro and more guides and horses are available for riding parties.
A new direct motor service from Christchurch via Timaru and Central Otago, by Wanaka Motors Ltd., now places Pembroke more readily within reach from the centres. Severa1 tramping parties crossed from Wanaka to the Glaciers and only one or two experienced hold-ups by the many rivers. Already the enquiries for accommodation, guides, etc., for next season are numerous and it is safe, to predict a new record for next season. -Hokitika Guardian, 7/6/1929.
MAKARORA NOTES
HAWEA-MAKARORA ROAD
The last survey peg of this section was driven at Makarora to-day (June 13th), at a distance of 23 miles 72 chains from Hawea Bridge. It is reported that good headway is now being made with the road construction from Hawea. The number of laborers has again been increased and most of the work is being done on cooperative lines. From good authority it is learned there is little hope of the Neck being reached by Xmas, unless the present number employed is considerably increased.
Mr Eric James leaves this week on an observation trip into the unknown regions south of Cascade, in South Westland. A Government Publicity photographer will accompany him, also others may be induced by intense interest in the unexplored parts to join the party. -Dunstan Times, 8/7/1929.
EXPLORATION IN UNKNOWN OTAGO.
NEW LAKES AND ROUTES DISCOVERED.
Written for the Otago Daily Times.
By Eric James.
I. — THE JOURNEY TO MARTIN’S BAY.
Numerous attempts have been made to find a practicable return route from Milford Sounds to avoid the retracing of steps over the same ground. A few years ago the Grave Talbot Pass was found and opened up, but it has not become popular and may never be. Travellers taking on this trip unescorted require alpine experience, and in either case fitness is essential. It was generally believed that the exploration for the desired pass has been so thorough that new aspirants have not been induced to investigate further. The late Mr S. Turner, the well-known alpinist, located a high pass during his repeated efforts to climb Tutuko. This was turned down after inspection by a Government engineer.
The possibilities of making a track down the Milford Sounds on the north side have long been classified as negligible. The existence of a small landing cove inside Dale Point, the innermost northern point at the mouth of the sound, has prompted a theory within my mind that a route connecting this place with the Hollyford Track might be possible. It is rarely that a landing cannot be effected in this Cove and when found unfavourable it would probably be unfavourable to continue overland from it. The trip over the Milford Track and by launch or steamer, down the sound, then overland from Dale Point to the Hollyford, should be a desirable one.
The Hollyford, with its several connecting tracks, offers the traveller a choice of returning to Milford via Grave Talbot or by the Dore Pass Track, or to Lake Wakatipn and Queenstown, via Greenstone Valley, or the Routeburn-Harris Saddle route, while another track branches off through the Mavora Lakes district.
With this possibility in my mind I planned the following expedition for the winter of the present year. The patty comprised Mr W. Watson, photographer, an Auckland press photographer, and myself. The Auckland member left the party before the various discoveries were made, being conducted to Lake Wakatipu by way of Howden. A little over a month after starting out from there we were joined by Mr Malcolm McKenzie.
Our party of three, with a pack horse train carrying supplies of photographic gear, set out from Makarora, Lake Wanaka, on May 27, in clear weather. Crossing the Haast Pass from the Makarora, Valley, we descended through the Haast Canyon to the new Government Burke hut, where the first night was spent.
The forest was heavily coated with snow next morning, and the cameras were busy, and many fine pictures were obtained. The next night we reached the Clarke hut, situated facing the giant Mount MacFarlane (8262 feet), Mount Sefton, and the Footstool were seen up the Landsborough Valley. This valley offers wild and rugged scenery and deserves to be better known. The most magnificent view of all is Hooker (8644 ft), and its extensive snowfields facing us from the head of the Clarke Valley. The next stage was a long one of 35 miles. Following the Haast River to the mouth (25 miles), we turned southwards along the sea shore to Okuru, the isolated and southernmost settlement. Arriving long after dark, we forded the Okuru River, and obtained accommodation at a farmhouse. We were forced to remain here for two days above that required for photographing on account of bad weather. Okuru’s population has dwindled to seven families, and it is a costly district for the Government to maintain in subsidies for mail and steamer accommodation.
Overland mails arrive every fortnight by packhorse, and a scow calls six times a year. Cheese, butter, and sheep are exported, but the principal industry is that of cattle raising. Cattle are usually driven away twice a year, a journey occupying at least 10 days. Periodically cattle and horses are driven over the Haast Pass to Otago.
We left Okuru, our last chance of communication with the outside world, on June 2, and reached the only remaining house of the ill-fated Arawata settlement that night. We had to ford the Hapuku and Turnbull Rivers, and ferry the more formidable Arawata and Waitoto. At the latter B—, the press photographer, fell out of the boat, luckily near the bank, and damaged some of his choicest exposed plates. Ferrying these rapid-flowing rivers on the coast is carried out by means of an open boat within which the gear and saddlery are placed, and the horses swim behind at the full length of the bridle rein. Repeated crossings were made before the outfit was on the required side. On the Arawata the current was so strong that a landing was effected some chains down. This made it necessary to tow the boat up a considerable distance to allow for the current recrossing.
We had the company of Donald McPherson while at the Arawata, but nothing would persuade Donald to submit to being photographed. The following day we spent in Jackson Bay. Donald left with cattle the next morning for Okuru and we continued south.
“ARAWATA BILL.”
At Okuru we learned that “Arawata Bill,” the well-known prospector, had come down from his mountain home and was making out to Wakatipu, via Martin's Bay. He claimed to have made some important discoveries in the uppermost reaches of the Arawata River. This consisted of a man-made tunnel or drive alongside a tree with the figures 187 cut into it, while an indistinct fourth figure which may have been a 2 or 4, was also discernable. Bill connects this discovery with early mining romances, which were instrumental in luring him to that distant district. He has a theory that the romance of the Arawata, of which Bill alone knows the story, is connected with the Frenchman’s Cascade treasure, a romantic story which from time to time reappears with some alterations and additions in the press.
Whatever the story, Bill is confident it has some bearing on the object matter of his long search in this locality, and proposes to seek financial assistance to further his search. When he eventually reached Big Bay he spent some time in the Pyke Valley in search of a certain grove of large tree ferns, which he believes are of South Sea Island origin, and an important landmark in connection with the supposed hidden gold. His intention then was to follow the course of the Olivine River to its head, then cross the mountains to Wakatipu by way of Rock Burn, an accomplishment he has little chance of achieving at this time of the year. (To be continued.) -Otago Daily Times, 3/9/1930.
EXPLORATION IN UNKNOWN OTAGO.
NEW LAKES AND ROUTES DISCOVERED.
Written for the Otago Daily Times. By Eric James.
II. — OVER THE RED MOUNTAINS.
Our course now lay up the Arawata and Jackson Rivers to the Martyr Saddle, a low bush saddle overlooking the beautiful and spacious Cascade River, which flows from those little known and interesting Red Mountains. This range, which is entirely devoid of vegetation above 1400 feet, stretched in a south-east direction for-roughly 13 miles, and has attracted geologists on various occasions during recent years. Even so it is- for the most part still unknown country. Splendid panoramic views were obtained from the Red Spur, and a general view of the Cascade Plateau to our west descending gradually to the sea. This is still “no man s land ” from a grazing point of view, and would winter a large number of sheep on its warm, downy tops. There is still much room in South Westland for the enterprising young stock raiser who is willing to get outback.
We made our bach at a vacant homestead known as Cascade House, and which was formerly the Red Hills Station homestead. High country sheep grazing has long been abandoned here, but large numbers of Hereford cattle are to be seen on the fertile flats. Made accessible and wisely subdivided, an ideal dairying district would be established here. Some 2000 acres have been felled, and grassed, and large areas still remain in a virgin state. Just north of the river mouth there is a seal rookery, which we aimed tp reach on the following day.
Crossing over wide pastures, winding right and left to avoid lagoons and swamps, we eventually encountered what was once a bush track, but which was now out of repair. Billhooks had to hack every yard, and the horses had to jump numerous deep silty creeks. Nightfall found us with still some miles to cut through and the bush, getting dense with lawyer and vines. We camped on the edge of the jungle on the bank of the wide tidal waters of the Cascade River, without doubt one of the most beautiful rivers in the south, and suitable for boats.
Next morning found us hacking away again, and that evening we came in sight of the high sand dunes just north of the river mouth about half a mile distant. The weather looked threatening and our supply of bread became wet when the packhorse swam the river. We decided to return for fresh supplies reluctantly after fighting for every yard of ground. B however wasn’t too happy in this dense, trackless jungle, and decided he himself would not return, but would await us at the base.
As it so turned out none of us returned. Pushing back in what little daylight we had W a horse fell over the bank into the river and swam to the far side. There being no ford to cross after him he had to be left. W camped in the remains of a bushfeller’s hut, and B and I rode in the faint moonlight to our base, arriving late. On the morrow B took supplies to W accompanied by me to a ford, over which I crossed mounted. Tying my horse up I proceeded down on foot to where the horse crossed. This occupied five hours of strenuous scrambling through dense bush and swamp. I found the horse tied up with the loose rein in a flaxbush, and looking empty on his long fast. I got him across to the others, who were on the opposite side, and reluctantly retraced my steps through that dense bush. I was benighted for three hours, and I reached my horse in an exhausted condition in heavy rain. It was only with difficulty I could get my leg astride the saddle. I arrived tired and famished well after midnight, and surprised to find the other two absent. It had rained heavily all night and daybreak found the river high and no appearance of the others.
The following day I crossed the rivet with difficulty and rode down to where I had last seen the others, who, according to arrangements which they failed to keep, were to have met me at a given point two days previously.
This was explained when I eventually found them cooped up in a dilapidated hut, where they had subsisted on scanty rations. It appears the horse which had given the trouble crossing the river, had been unwisely overloaded, and mounted, and in his weak state through fasting, had fallen with his rider among, the tussock heads. In the fall the rider’s leg had become jammed and was only released after prolonged efforts. After this experience they decided to camp, and not until my appearance two days later did they endeavour to better their position. The seals in their caves still remain unphotographed.
SOUTHWARDS.
As soon as the weather cleared the horses were loaded and their heads turned southwards to Brown’s Refuge, a doubtful boat landing down the rugged coast south of the Gorge River. Most of the horses in turn became temporarily bogged in numerous quagmires along the Cascade-Barn Bay track. The Hope River nearly reached the horses' backs when crossing; miles of large boulders now faced us which were very tiring to the horses. A poorly defined track took us over Sandrock Bluff, erroneously called Steephead. Here two pack horses fell over the side and were only retrieved as darkness set in, one having to be left till morning. With the remainder we pushed on to an abandoned prospector’s hut, obscured from view by thick undergrowth. I returned next day for the horse while the others rested, the strenuous nature of the previous day’s travelling being in evidence.
On the 13th, an unlucky day, we started on our journey to the Hacket River less one hack, which had gone lame. Our movements being governed by the tide, haste was made to cross the Gorge River and a nearby bluff. It was at this river mouth during a previous visit I had panned a rich prospect of coarse gold, comprising five shoddy pieces about the size of rice, and many colours in one dish. An early prospector of repute was said to have struck a rich find up this gorgy river, and went out to ship round two years provisions, but met an untimely end in a fire, and his secret was lost.
While passing round a small bluff a promising pack horse fell over the cuff with a load of photographic gear and died from her injuries shortly afterwards.
This accident was caused by lack of co-operation from the rear. Her saddle was hoisted to a tree and the load placed on another horse. We were now in wild cattle country, and shortly after the accident I shot a young beast and packed away the best of the beef, which proved a godsend in the days that followed.
We camped on the north side of the Hacket River. Two swaggers proceeding north after having accompanied “Arawata Bill" uninvited as far as Big Bay, were camped on the south side. We had good reasons for regretting their presence in the district, as the narrative will later disclose. While collecting firewood I unearthed a number of picks and mining tools, probably abandoned after the short-lived Big Bay rush in the eighties.
The journey to Big Bay from the Hacket River is decidedly the roughest section. Loads were repeatedly torn from the saddle getting through the ki-ki and supplejack undergrowth. Bogs were numerous, and troublesome boulders could not be avoided. At Big Bay Point (Awarua) a fine view was before us showing the Darran Mountains, Pembroke Peak, and others further south, but B was so pegged out that he couldn't operate his camera. Continuing on, winding in and out of endless boulders, we came upon pieces of iron belonging to a vessel wrecked there over 50 years ago. Her cargo was railway stock, said to have been destined for an Australian port. The Big Bay landing shed was a welcome sight. We had scarcely the billy boiling when "Arawata” Bill appeared, returning from an unsuccessful' fishing expedition. We compared notes of our journeys south, and found that he, too, experienced many accidents. Our shortage of food was becoming acute. We had built upon finding our supplies landed here by the Government steamer upon arrival.
A mile further, smoke could be seen rising from one of Mr Gunn’s mustering huts, occupied by two bushmen engaged in bushfelling. Their provisions were low, but they kindly shared what they had with us. They, too, were awaiting the boat. (To be continued.) -Otago Daily Times, 4/9/1930.
UNKNOWN OTAGO.
NEW LAKES AND ROUTES DISCOVERED.
By Eric James.
III. — STILL SOUTHWARD.
On the third day, whilst we were gathering mussels, a faint outline of the steamer passing through a break in the fog making north could be seen. This made our position worse. Not knowing if our goods had been dumped at Martin’s Bay, or if she would return from Jackson Bay and unload, W and I went up to the Pyke Valley through a nine-mile bush track, remaining three days. B remained with the bushfellers, taking things easy. During the three days some interesting country was photographed, including the Red Mountain and Lake Wilmot, the latter, it is believed, for the first time.
Upon arriving back at Big Bay we found that all had left for the Hollyford, two going as far as the head of Lake McKerrow for the boat (15 miles further) to enable a crossing to be made to Martin’s Bay landing shed.
It is a short day from Big Bay to a hut on the banks of the Hollyford known as “George’s,” formerly a homestead of one of the earliest settlers. The first three miles is along a fine hard sandy beach, then passing round a point stretching far out to sea, which separates the two bays.
King tree ferns were numerous, and made a beautiful study. The mouth of the Hollyford suddenly comes into view, rockbound on the north, and with high sand dunes on the left, amongst which many Maori ovens and evidence of former Maori occupation are to be seen. Maoris inhabited this place when H.M.S. Acheron made the coastal survey in the forties, and again when Dr Hector paid a visit a few years later.
The Hollyford is a large, stream, taking its rise some 60 miles inland, and drains a large number of lakes. It is navigable for vessels, but a dangerous rock exists at the bar, which is indicated by an iron spike. The river is noted for trout, and swan abound in hundreds.
Less than an hour brought us to “George’s” hut, just before the boat arrived down from the head of McKerrow. This is a delightful spot, and an ideal camp for anglers. The following day, between heavy cold showers, we packed and boated part of our supplies to the north side. We were compelled to remain a few days on account of bad weather.
The crossing to Martin's Bay is affected by crossing the river by boat to a lagoon below on the far side, and rowing up this to a boatshed nearly two miles. The homestead, which is now falling to pieces, is reached walking five minutes from the boat shed. Here the pioneer McKenzie family resided for many years, engaged in raising stock. They got their supplies twice or three times a year by the Government steamer, the only communication they had with the outside world.
In the eighties some 200 miners and prospectors visited the district, but only a few remained for any length of time. As at Jackson Bay and Arawata, a large number of 50-acre sections were surveyed, and settlement encouraged, and for some years there were a number of settlers who made a success at cattle raising and mining. As years went by the numbers became less and less until the McKenzies alone remained.
On one occasion, a Christmas Day, a prospector addicted to drugs exhausted his supply and shot himself in McKenzie’s kitchen, despite the precaution the McKenzies had taken to conceal cartridges, etc. During the latter end of the war six deserters from Trentham found their way in, and left only when no food remained. War had been raging for eight months before the McKenzies were acquainted with the fact.
In the early eighties a landscape artist named Morton, who had spent a period in Milford Sound, was landed near Dale Point, from where he walked overland, arriving exhausted and without provisions. This was the only occasion on which the overland journey was made. Some years later a man named Don, with a companion, reached Martin’s Bay from Queenstown, and proceeded southward, intending to try and reach Milford (Sutherland’s). A boat had been arranged to pick them up, probably at the cove at the narrows which was my objective. The boatman, I understand, failed to put in an appearance, but fortunately a passing schooner was hailed, which conveyed them to their destination.
THE JOURNEY TO LAKE WAKATIPU
According to pre-arrangements. B was conducted to Elfin Bay, Lake Wakatipu, while W awaited my return in the Lower Hollyford and around the lakes, an opportunity he made the most of to secure a large number of photographs. Joined by one of the bushmen who was also journeying to civilisation our party of four proceeded up Lake McKerrow, two by boat with the supplies, and two with horses up the track.
This lake is without doubt one of the most beautiful of all the western lakes, a sheet of water 12 miles in length and bounded on the south side by the May Hills and Darran Mountains, and on the north by the Skippers Range. The following day, despite rain, we reached Hidden Falls hut, a comfortable building 12 long miles from the head of McKerrow. We forded the Pyke River halfway just below the outlet of Lake Alabaster. This is another silent sheet of water surrounded by high snow-capped peaks, which are reflected in its clear surface. Above the lake eight miles of river-bed connect Lake Wilmot, formerly and more correctly known as Lake Williamson, after the man who discovered it. This stretch of eight miles with the Barrier and Olivine Valleys is unoccupied land and awaits the settler to occupy it.
Our next stage was to Deadman’s hut, a recently erected timber slab but the property of the Martin’s Bay Station. The scenery becomes less interesting than that found in the lower valley, which for lake, river, forest, and mountain combination cannot be excelled. It is a great pity the track is not kept in better order, and the route made better known. It is favoured with huts every few miles, but these are mostly privately owned.
To walkers and riders visiting this valley a pleasant change of travel is to be had, by continuing down to Martin's Bay by boat or up Lake Alabaster, to the Pyke Valley by boat. The high peaks of the Darran Mountains present a fine alpine appearance, towering sheer up on the south side. Tutuko and Madaline may be seen from Horner Saddle below Hidden Falls.
During the early summer avalanches from the heights above may be heard falling both day and night.
Prior to reaching Deadman’s, the grave of Donald Keith, who died following a heavy meal after a period of starvation in the early days, is seen. Keith was a Scotch shepherd seeking new sheep country. And, unlike Harris and Clarke, two prospectors who, when faced with starvation at Lake McKerrow, ate their dog, Keith preferred death rather than destroy his faithful dogs. Messrs Barker, son, and party were held up with floods at McKerrow for eight days without food. They, like many others, were seeking gold, and supplied with a plan of the Gorge River on which their chief landmark was a pick driven into a tree. The stories of gold to be found in that valley are not all without foundation, as I myself have got good prospects there. A little above Keith’s grave may be seen a disused track leading towards Harris Saddle. Next day we reached Mr Shaw’s hut, in the Greenstone Valley, staying a short time cn route to photograph Lakes Howden and McKellar. The former was frozen over, and snow lay deep around the Government hut.
Howden is an important centre from which the tracks branch to Dore Pass and Grave-Talbot Pass for Milford; and the Routeburn and Greenstone to Lake Wakatipu. A little after mid-day on the final day we reached Mrs Shaw's residence at Elfin Bay, overlooking Lake Wakatipu, from which a splendid view of Mount Earnslaw and other peaks at the head of the lake could be had. We were very hospitably received by Mrs Shaw, who jovially made some remark about prehistoric men appearing, alluding, no doubt, to our five weeks’ growth of beard.
After two days’ spell at Glenorchy, refitting, as the guest of Mr and Mrs McKenzie, to whom I am indebted for much early information concerning Martin’s Bay, I commenced the return journey with the horses, accompanied with Mr Malcolm McKenzie, who now replaced B in the party. Four days brought us to Hidden Falls hut. W arrived just before us, having tramped up from Pyke hut. We were compelled to rest the horses a day here, one in particular showing signs of weariness. This was not surprising, travelling over such boggy and heavy tracks. Gunn’s packman, who left a few hours after us, did not reach Martin’s Bay until three days later owing to his horses giving out.
Two days later we reached the coast., rowing down Lake McKerrow in the moonlight.
IV. — INTO NEW COUNTRY.
Our plans for penetrating southwards were here discussed. M was in favour of taking the boat, and it was eventually agreed that I proceed overland to Milford alone, while the others went down by sea, using the Lake McKerrow row boat, and taking with them necessary supplies and extra equipment. W and I packed the base camp outfit and supplies to near the head of the Kaipo Valley. Next day W returned to Martin’s, but unfortunately found the boat had been taken up Lake McKerrow for use, making it necessary to abandon that part of the programme. In the meantime I had set out overland, reaching a low saddle near a large and interesting land slip above the base camp. I then continued along a ridge in a south-east direction, blazing the trail as I went. Reaching the end of the ridge I descended to a saddle where a fine panoramic view was obtainable of the country and coastline south, with Pembroke Peak in the background.
Crossing this low saddle, from which flowed the centre stream of the Kaipo on the left and the Wolfe River on the right, I climbed to a second saddle, which proved to be the head of the John o’ Groat’s River. There appears to be no record of this stream having been explored, though it is said to have been mapped by the late Donald Sutherland from Mount Richardson. Contrary to what is given on the map this river flows in a narrow bouldery confined bed with forest growing to the water’s edge. this last-mentioned saddle was reached in fine, clear weather on July 13, and it was from here I located a distant lake, into which the John o’ Groats appeared to flow.
Matters were becoming interesting, and despite the late hour I climbed to a ridge on the left, overlooking a second lake far below.
That night I returned to my sleeping bag and provisions, and next morning started out to reach the second lake. It soon commenced to rain, which turned to snow. Tearing through dense snow-laden Veronica shrub on steep faces, wet to the skin, and chilled to the bone, I reached the shores of the lake in time to get a fire going before darkness set in. Most of my gear was soaked and I spent another miserable night.
Wekas were present in scores, and kept up a continual cry. It rained throughout the night and all next day, and I dared not move from my sleeping bag. The next night there was a severe frost, and a fine day followed.
This remarkable lake I found had fallen some feet since my arrival in spite of the heavy rain, and there was evidence of it having fallen nearly 20 feet during the last month. It is quite a small lake, despite the fact that it would occupy an hour to walk round it. It is bounded by large, sharp, granite rocks, and fed by a number of creeks, one of which contained quantities of large cream-white stone not unlike marble.
The most interesting feature about the lake was the fact that it had no apparent outlet. There was an outlet which only continued for a few chains, then the water disappeared underground. Neither was there any old bed indicating where the outlet may have once been. All the surrounding country was in the nature of large granite rocks lying on top of one another, over which the moss and bush had grown. Travelling was risky, as deep crevasses were concealed by a coating of moss only.
Making in a westerly direction, and after struggling through much difficult country, I suddenly emerged into view of the first lake seen from the John o’ Groat's saddle on the 13th. This was teeming with black teal. It is pear shaped, about the size of Howden. The upper stream of the John o’ Groat’s enters on the north-east side and the cataract outlet flows from the west side.
There were many places I intended to explore from here on the return journey, but this opportunity was denied me. At the foot of the rapid, the outlet of the lake, the river runs in two or more streams through swampy country, but a short distance down it again became a rapid flowing stream which was maintained right to the sea.
I was able to make good time through the bush, but failed to reach the coast before darkness set in. For three miles inland from the mouth the country is hummocky, and the nearer the coast the denser the bush, consisting chiefly of ki-ki and supplejack, which proved slow and heavy going. Next day, after making an effort to get through this in the rain, I abandoned it, and tucked away in my sleeping bag, emerging two or three times for a meal of raw oatmeal, a fire being quite out of the question. Next day, in less than an hour, I reached the sea shore. A large driftwood fire removed much of the moisture from my gear. My clothes were now rags, and my boots in pieces, and my food getting low, as my bread and biscuits became soaked when crossing the saddle (July 13).
I had, however, some satisfaction in the belief that I am the first to follow the course of this river from its source to its mouth and remove the erroneous belief that the stream flows over a wide shingle bed similar to the Kaipo. Throughout its course I saw no food for horse or man below the lake, but there were several places where a tree could be felled across, making a footbridge.
So far the most important observation was a break in the Darran Mountains, through which I feel a practicable alpine pass might be found leading towards the Hollyford Valley, and which, if found practicable, would be of some importance as the long-desired return route from Milford. It is my ambition in the near future further to investigate the possibilities of this.
Continuing south along the beach, strewn with wreckage and many pretty shells, I encountered some cliffs and rocks which would prove difficult to pass round at high tide. One or two places I had to scale rock walls, and in at least three places had to climb over the steep bush faces for short distances. At Stripe Point I left my swag and proceeded empty. It was now raining heavily, and when within cooee of Dall Point, the inner point at the mouth of the sound, I was compelled to return lest I become cut off from my swag by the rising tide.
It was plain to me by this time that my companions had failed to get down by boat, because of the absence of prearranged signs. I was nearly washed off the rocks on the return journey, and my poor old dog Toby, which had been kindly lent to me for company, disappeared from one of these rocks, washed no doubt into the sea. I looked back when I him, and saw two sharks at the foot of the rock, into which I fear poor Toby must have vanished.
For a few days I felt miserably lonely after Toby’s departure. I continued back to the John o' Groats that night weary and footsore. Morning broke clear and fine, and I followed the coast northwards. The fording of the John o’ Groats was not achieved without accident. Twice I slipped on the greasy rocks, and got party ducked, besides a damaged knee which affected me for days after. The crossing was effected only by going out into the breakers and fording along a wide bar between rocks, and only then with difficulty.
I crossed the Wolfe River, up which, I am of opinion, an easy route to the Kaipo Valley might be found. On Mount Richardson, north of the Wolfe, a mining party once operated with some success. The late Donald Sutherland was also interested in this claim, and also in another on Madagascar Beach. The whole party with the exception of Sutherland was later drowned while attempting to cross the Hollyford bar in a small boat.
When passing round Yates Point scores of penguins were seen basking in the sun, while the noise of others in the bush resembled the noise from a litter of pups. I camped that night at a creek near Sidney Beach, opposite tower-shaped rocks in the sea, with cabbage trees growing on their summits. A number of large cattle tracks were visible, but, judging from the amount of untouched bush feed, there could not have been many animals. These were probably old bullocks which had strayed from McKenzie Bros.’ southern-most herd (Kaipo).
With the hopes of making the base camp before nightfall, I set off, heading inland, following the creek to near its head. Then descending a steep slip-face, where I had to cut foot-holes with my knife, I reached another and larger creek, which I followed for a considerable distance. Rising to a ridge near its head in the late afternoon, I noticed an old well-beaten cattle track now covered with moss through disuse.
Camping at dark, and away at daybreak without food, being now down to a small bag of oatmeal, I struck a large creek flowing northwards, expecting it to land me in the upper reaches of Ruby Creek, but to my joy I emerged out into the Kaipo Valley, having left Ruby Creek on my left. I noticed a fresh horse track going down, which I recognised as that of M’s horse, who, I found out later, had that morning returned to Martin’s Bay for more supplies. I camped at the Kaipo mustering hut, reaching the base camp the next morning. Every step was becoming painful on account of the condition of my boots.
V. — A SEARCH FOR OIL
I found W alone at the camp and learned of their failure to get the boat round, and of their attempt to go down overland with provisions. They had abandoned the attempt on the first day reaching the base the same night, and had remained in camp until the morning I reached the Kaipo, M then leaving for supplies. We waited a few days at the base until the food was exhausted, and returned to Martin’s, collecting another camp on the way, erected as a base camp previously, from which to carry out prospecting for oil believed to be found nearby. Working upon the information received from a friend who in turn had received it some years ago from an old prospector upon his deathbed in recognition of some good turn done, this search had been planned, but under the circumstances, without food and boots, it had to be abandoned. This oil was first found by two prospectors, one of whom was my friend’s informant. The other had made repeated visits since again to locate the place, but failed. The deposit, when found, was a bubbling pool of thick, yellow, syrupy oil.
Two small bottles were taken out, but became broken before civilisation was reached. Failing strength prevented the elder prospector from returning, while the failure of his mate to locate it alone was said to be on account of his poor knowledge of bushcraft. Another deposit of oil shale was found by another man some distance from the first, the finder of this prior to his death made repeated visits to locate that found by the other two, but without success. Samples of shale from the second find were sent out for analysis, but not in sufficient quantities to obtain a report on.
A search for this oil will be the aim of a future visit. In the country south of the Kaipo rubies were to be found and we took out samples.
PREPARING FOR HOME.
Before we reached Martin’s Bay we met M returning with the delayed provisions. Upon reaching the boat crossing we found the boat still away, I employed myself breaking in young horses, two of which we procured and packed to Wanaka, and which proved invaluable owing to the casualties in our original team.
Tired of waiting longer we built a flax “claddy” raft, a cumbersome but effective structure, which carried all three over safely. Gunn’s packman returned next day with W, who had walked up to the head for the boat. He had been up the Hollyford to hurry on the two swaggers previously mentioned, who had made their way south again. He reported much missing clothing and boots from the various huts, the property of the station employees, and large quantities of food supplies required for the approaching muster. The huts were left dirty and without firewood.
Two stockmen from Wakatipu arrived the same evening with one horse between them, one having to be abandoned on the track. Horses have to be bold in this country to withstand the hard conditions. The one that reached its destination was local bred and of tough “texture.” though a rough-looking “brumby” to look at. I was fortunate enough to buy this one. These enterprising stockmen were going to inspect an area of down lands 20 miles square, which in parts was well stocked with wild cattle. They intended taking this area up, mustering what they could of the wild stock, and restocking with quiet cattle. Were there more of this type our large areas of back country would soon become productive, and be made accessible by more and more tracks.
The next day was occupied in swimming the horses over from Martin’s and refitting. A day or two prior to our crossing "Arawata Bill” had passed up to enter the Pyke Valley from the Hollyford, he having failed from the Big Bay entrance.
THE HOMEWARD JOURNEY.
On August 3 we commenced our homeward journey in company with the stockmen, reaching Big Bay that evening. I picked up a thoroughbred gelding of the original team on the way. After shoeing the horses we faced again the roughest section of the home journey. The chestnut got his foot jammed in between rocks and was only released with difficulty. Another horse of the original team came to grief amongst the rocks shortly afterwards. He could not rise despite assistance from all hands, and we were compelled to camp in the moonlight nearby, in a space just large enough to lie down, further efforts to raise the black horse failed, one leg appearing to be powerless, and he had to be left for the stockmen to shoot. Like the chestnut, he had too much breeding for these conditions, and got into difficult places through an excess of fright swamping the cool judgment which is to be found in the local-bred coolheaded "brumby.”
The Wakatipu land seekers taking a different route to us picked up a quantity of ambergris. We all camped under the tree terns with the moonlight above near the Hacket River. Next morning they went abroad to shoot some beef, in which they were successful, we taking a quarter with us. We parted company, they travelling inland and we north.
The Gorge River was reached that evening. We found some abandoned saddlery including some of our own, which had been left higher up the coast, also a horse. At a nearby camp, around which was scattered wings and feathers of wekas, kakas, pigeons, and ducks, and elsewhere along the track, there was evidence of wholesale destruction of bird life. Saddlery which had been left where the unfortunate young packhorse went the cliff on the southward journey hail been robbed of all straps, etc.
The Gorge River was found high, backed up by the tide. Taking with us the abandoned horse, which would have starved if left, we reached a point south of Fork River where one of our own horses was picked up which had been left on the journey down. After a long, strenuous day treading the tiring, everlasting boulders, we reached the Hope River, in darkness and camped on the north side. This was the only occasion on the return journey where a tent was erected, being necessary on account of cold showers. This stream is said to contain some rich quartz reefs, and a nickel lode was explored during Paulin’s geological trip some years ago.
Continuing north-east along the boggy bush track we met with more accidents, the chestnut giving much trouble. He lacked that desirable quality, gameness, and finally refused to attempt a slight, but muddy, incline, and had to be abandoned till the morning. The hut we found in the greatest disorder. Harness, rifles, and dynamite belonging to the Cascade House were thrown about. Also some of our own clothing, books, etc., left at the house.
Next morning I returned for the chestnut and found he had wandered into a boggy creek, lying helpless. It was apparent he had thrown in the sponge, and I had no alternative but to put him out of his misery, which was speedily accomplished. I returned, overtaking the others, who had lost the track. We found the Cascade House even in a worse state than the rest. The fireplace was full of halfburnt wood, camp ovens, dishes, pots, and pans were filthy, and some thrown outside. Our belongings had disappeared and so had all the owner’s food and much other stuff, and what was left was thrown about in the worst possible disorder.
Next day, climbing over the Martyr Saddle, then down the Jackson River, we boiled the billy upon reaching Arawata hut, continuing that evening to the deserted ferryman’s hut at the Waitoto, seven miles north of the Arawata River ford, it then being thought to effect a crossing at low tide in the morning. The long spell of warm weather plus the drying land winds had caused the river mouth to block, and we had to use the boat and swim the horses, an undertaking beset with many failures before they were eventually persuaded to tackle the cold water.
Okuru Settlement came into sight at mid-day. Mr Cowan came across to ferry us. The local ketch had that day crossed the bar, nearly meeting with disaster in the process on account of the shallowness of the bar. The little settlement was alive with excitement. Boat day is always a big day there. I think I scared a few with my three months’ growth of beard. One of the first messages conveyed to me was from home announcing the arrival of a son and heir during my long absence.
We found the owner of the abandoned horse and saddle, and learned of more stolen goods, including a row boat, which had disappeared, and geese that had been shot, and I can imagine a hot reception for the daring culprits should they have the cheek again to revisit the district.
Dealing with a long accumulation of mail occupied a few hours, so also did the relating of our adventures in exchange for news of events that had happened in the outside world.
It occupied four days to reach Wanaka, the extra time being occupied in getting in fresh horses in the Haast Valley to replace our weary ones. Amongst those from Martin’s Bay was an old fashioned looking unbroken pony, which was a present to my children. Thirteen days of delightful weather were occupied on the trip.
RESULTS OF THE TRIP.
During the three months’ trip two new lakes were added to Otago’s long list; access to a promising alpine pass was found; John o’ Groats Valley and much country in the vicinity were explored; overland routes connecting Milford and Martin’s Bay were found possible, while a splendid photographic record was obtained and mineral specimens preserved. No fewer than 36 different rivers and numberless creeks and eight mountain passes were crossed.
BIRD AND ANIMAL LIFE.
I found bird life fairly plentiful south of the Cascade River, but the ground birds were less plentiful in the Cascade Valley than during previous visits. There was plenty of evidence of the cursed stoat and weasel. I saw an inquisitive pair of brown teal in the lower Cascade, where also were seen numbers of grey and Paradise ducks and a few swan.
Wekas were seen right down to Milford, but not north of Cascade. They were exceptionally plentiful in the hilly country. M found signs of the only kakapo, and a few kiwis were heard but none seen. Black teal were numerous on the first new lake, and swan were very numerous at the Hollyford mouth. Paradise ducks were to be seen in most rivers, but not in large numbers.
One interesting bird I failed to place was seen at Yates’s Point — a large bird with the characteristics of the shag and bitterns but brown in colour, and possessing a long bill with a hooked point. It was much disturbed at my presence probably having a nest nearby. Penguins were seen at several headlands down the coast, also an occasional seal. Brown trout were present in large numbers in every river, and mostly in good condition.
The lower Hollyford in particular should appeal to anglers. The river with the several lakes entering it should be well suited for rainbow, and I suggest that the society consider stocking its splendid waters. Shell fish were not plentiful, but fish may always be caught from the rocks along the coast, especially crayfish, which in places are very plentiful. Wild cattle are to be found at the Cascade mouth, the long stretch of coastal country between Gorge River and Big Bay, and at Upper Pyke Valley and at Sidney Beach.
Verginian, red and fallow deer are present in the Greenstone Valley, and tracks of red deer were seen in the Hollyford and Pyke Valleys. The first stag was seen and shot in the lower Cascade in May, 1928, and two were shot in the Arawata the same month. -Otago Witness, 16/9/1930.
A GLORIOUS HOLIDAY AT THE "BACK OF BEYOND.”
THE HAAST PASS TRACK.
THE HOLLYFORD TRACK.
ERIC JAMES, the well-known Guide and Tourist Agent, IS NOW IN THE CITY, and will be glad to INTERVIEW and ARRANGE with those who desire to make HOLIDAY TRIPS in the fascinating regions of the Haast Pass, from Lake Wanaka to the Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers; or the Hollyford Tracks from Lake Wakatipu.
Appointments may he made by Telephone 13-444.
Descriptive Lantern Lectures given on request.
Address ERIC JAMES,
Care of Wanaka Motors, Ltd., White Star. Garage, Stafford street. -Otago Daily Times, 9/10/1930.
The Canterbury Museum biography goes on to say: "Despite Eric’s enthusiasm for South Westland, he wasn’t universally well liked. He was a man who spoke his mind and believed in the law. When he became a Fisheries Act Ranger he fell out with (WD) Dinnie Nolan, the patriarch of the Haast district, and life there was made uncomfortable for him. The family moved to Makarora but misfortune followed. In 1931 seven of his horses were shot and many of his sheep shot or drowned. Then his house at Makarora caught on fire. Eric was away but Edith and their three children escaped in their nightwear."
DESTRUCTION OF STOCK
TO THE EDITOR. Sir, — My attention has been drawn to a paragraph in your Makarora Notes in your issue of the 17th instant, stating that "recently a number of horses were found dead, having been shot, and yesterday ihe same owner found a number of his sheep destroyed in the same way, being shot since the horses' carcasses were found." The miscreants who perpetrated this outrage should be brought to justice. The victim of these contemptible acts, I understand, is Mr Eric James, who is well and favourably known to Dunedin as an enthusiastic promoter of the tourist traffic in New Zealand. He has rendered yeoman service in this direction, and the work which he has carried out in the interests of the backblock settlements in the Haast district is worthy of very high commendation. Those of us who have been brought into contact with him on his periodical visits to this city feel that something should be done to assist him to bring the perpetrator before the proper tribunal for dealing with such individuals. With that end in view I am prepared to offer a reward to any person who can give information which will lead to the conviction of anyone connected with these outrages.
— I am, etc., Humanus. June 19. -Otago Daily Times, 23/6/1931.
STOCK SHOOTING AT MAKARORA
TO THE EDITOR. Sir, — May I express my thanks to “Humamis” and to “Justice" for their letters in sympathy with me in the loss I have sustained at the hands of criminals who have been shooting my dumb animals (horses and sheep), and also to acknowledge a personal letter from the former and thank him for his offer of £10 reward to the person or persons who will give information leading to the arrest and conviction of the culprits.
It is cheering to learn that one has sympathy from afar, which is the more welcome in view of the police neglect to take the necessary immediate action to follow up the clues that were so clear when the discovery was made.
Over a month had passed before the police visited the scene of this coldblooded outrage against innocent horses and then probably this would not have taken place but for the second discovery — that of the destruction of sheep. The excuses put forward by the Commissioner of Police were most amusing and gave the impression that the locality was regarded as a second Alaska, involving the crossing of a pass “ dangerous, and often blocked, after April,” whereas it is the only pass through the Southern Alps which has never been blocked.
On the face of it, there has been an argument as to the branch of the Police Department that should undertake the investigations — whether it should be the West Coast district, necessitating, a five to six days’ ride, or the Invercargill police district, with a station at Pembroke, situated one day’s ride away —whilst valuable time was passing by. The circumstances appear to me to warrant the creation of a draft of North-west Mounted Troopers for the back country stations, who will not be afraid of getting wet feet, etc. It is barely two months since I stocked my distant and virgin run with sheep after a long and hazardous drive over the Haast Pass from Otago, and disheartening would hardly describe my feelings to find at least 150 healthy ewes missing, 40 of which have been found, some drowned and some shot. Had the police taken immediate steps when the horses were found, the sheep might have been saved their sad fate, and this inactivity probably giving the culprit “courage” to repeat the murder. One of the destroyed horses, a young, valuable beast, though never handled, was so friendly that he would come up and sniff any stranger. It required a callous murderer to wilfully aim destruction to this noble and friendly beast and the mother and her small foal. Yet, despite the knowledge that only three to five persons were known to have been in the neighbourhood, the person responsible is still at large.
Then, again, crime has been rather rampant in this district of late — for instance, two burglaries at the White Star tourist office, one at Mr J. Mackays store, and another in Mr P. Sargoods staff quarters. In addition there is the mystery surrounding the fire which destroyed Mr Sargood’s summer residence. All this occurred at Pembroke. Is it not time that something really practical and effective was done to protect property owners?
— I am, etc., Eric James. Makarora, June 30. -Otago Daily Times, 3/7/1931.
STOCK SHOOTING AT MAKARORA
TO THE EDITOR Sir, — On the 3rd inst. you published a letter by Mr Eric James, in which, in referring to his misfortune in the loss of horses and sheep, he makes a rambling indictment of the Police Department in general and the Pembroke constable in particular. While any right-thinking person will agree that it is a disgraceful thing wantonly to destroy healthy animals, a “sob story” coming from Mr James does not seem natural, and is only to get sympathy in his attack on a man, who, through his position, is unable to reply. I can say without fear of contradiction that the Pembroke constable has a reputation for keeping law and order in his district that is noteworthy, and it is most unfair for any person to make suggestions that may damage his reputation.
— I am, etc., White Horse. Pembroke, July 8. -Otago Daily Times, 10/7/1931.
STOCK SHOOTING IN MAKARORA
TO HIE EDITOR. Sir, — It was most amusing to read the letter of “White Horse,” in which he accuses Mr Eric James of publishing a “sob story,” when he makes a perfectly justifiable attack on the methods of the police authorities in connection with his recent heavy loss. “White Horse” apparently insinuates that Mr James should take all that is handed to him lying down just because he is Eric James. The apathy of the authorities in this case is very much in contrast with the alacrity which they showed when a trifling charge was made against Mr James a year or two ago. He did quite right to air his grievance through the press, as a case such as this needs as much publicity as it can get.
— l am, etc., DALMENY. Dunedin, July 13. -Otago Daily Times, 16/7/1931.
MAKARORA NOTES
(From Our Own Correspondent.) MAKARORA, September 1.
Fire totally destroyed a residence owned and occupied by Mr Eric James at midnight on Friday last. Mr James was away, camped in the mountains at the time, and a messenger only reached him on Sunday afternoon. Mrs James, who was alone with three young children, had a narrow escape in their night attire through the bedroom window. The timely assistance of neighbours prevented the fire spreading to an outbuilding containing a quantity of saddlery, and saved the contents of a tent occupied by an employee, who was away at the time. The house and contents, were insured in the New Zealand Office for an amount understood to be in the vicinity of £180. -Otago Daily Times, 3/9/1931.
CENTRAL OTAGO
MAKARORA NOTES
(From Our Own Correspondent.) MAKARORA, September 17.
The fourth attack on sheep grazing in the Haast Valley has been reported to the police. Over 50 ewes have been found recently drowned in the Landsborough River. This now makes a total of no fewer than 465 grown sheep, besides many early lambs, that have been forced into the rivers or shot during the last few months. All are the property of Mr Eric James, who is also the owner ot five brood mares, in foal, which were driven from their pastures and blockaded on the Haaet Pass track to starve tor two weeks. When discovered by the police these unfortunate animals were in a sorry state, and one young mare was so weak that she died shortly after being rescued. Constable Mannix, of Pembroke, is investigating the complaints. -Otago Daily Times, 19/9/1931.
SOUTH WESTLAND NOTES
TOURIST TRAFFIC.
Tramping and riding parties continue to reach the Glacier District from Otago via Haast Pass but a lesser number are attempting the Copland trip than the previous year. A party who reached the Fox Hostel to-day included Mrs Harrison Kamloops, Canada; Miss Walker, Dunedin; and Mr Lee, Napier.
Prior to leaving Otago, Mr Lee, in company with Guide, Eric James, made an extended alpine exploration of the Southern Alps south east of Haast Pass in search of a practical alpine pass to Okuru but the search revealed nothing of a practical value. Mr Lee now proceeds to Hermitage via Copland Pass. -Hokitika Guardian, 16/1/1932.
A party, including Mr A. F. Lee, of the Napier Boys' High School, with Guide Eric James, set out prior to Christmas up the Siberia branch of the Wilkin river in search of a practical pass to Westland, said to have been viewed from a height during the Castor and Pollux climbs by Messrs Samuel Turner and Eric Miller four years ago. After delay by rain, snow, and fog the only promising crossing was attempted. The half-way point was reached only after several hours' step-cutting on the steep, frozen snow slopes. Further inspection brought the unwelcome fact before the climbers that to proceed further would bring them near the summit at sundown, and, faced with the risk of an impossible descent on the Westland side and their upwards steps early becoming blotted out, they were reluctantly forced to retire to the bivouac. However, had the crossing been successful, it at no time could have been classed as a practical alpine pass. After refitting at Makarora the party set out to explore the mountains at the head waters of the Young river. -Daily Telegraph, 3/2/1932.
In September of 1932 Eric James and family were living in Dunedin and running a dairy farm under the name of "James' Jersey Dairies." His heart, however, was still somewhat in the Haast area.
MILK SUPPLY
TO THE EDITOR. Sir, — I have read the correspondence in your paper on the above subject, and was rather surprised at the evasive reply given by the manager of James’s Jersey Dairies to the letters of “Resident” and “Another Resident.” He states, in one part of his letter, that he can faithfully supply his customers or prospective customers with milk from Jersey cows. As a breeder of purebred Jersey cattle, and in fairness to the quality of pure Jersey milk, I now challenge the manager of Jersey Dairies to prove the quality of the milk he retails by stating from whose Jersey herds he obtains his supplies. By so doing he will clear up a lot of existing doubt. I am in no way connected with the two previous correspondents, but am seeking these particulars chiefly on account of seeing the advertisement in the Winter Show, in which the manager of James's Jersey Dairies stated he could supply customers with pure Jersey milk. I shall wait for a reply to my questions before corresponding further on the subject.
— I am, etc., J. Hellyer. Macandrew Bay, June 15. -Otago Daily Times, 16/6/1933.
MILK SUPPLY
To THE EDITOR. Sir —The tone of Mr J. Hellyer's letter in Friday’s issue was somewhat modified from his arrogant threat over the telephone a day before, when he stated he would publish a challenge to the effect that should he fail to prove my ability to supply milk from Jersey cows he would offer to subscribe £10 towards the Mayor's Fund. The sum mentioned would, I am sure, be welcome to that fund. For the special information of Mr Hellyer and other critical competitors allow me to state that my chief supplier, who has been supplying since we opened business in the retail milk trade, possessed a complete Jersey herd or around 70 cows, and has taken over an adjoining farm which includes 12 cows, which possess no Jersey strain. Of this herd 56 are at present in milk and several heifers are due a few weeks hence. Another supplier possesses all Jersey cows, 50 per cent. of which are grade cows. These cows may not be mentioned in the Stock Book, although the bulls are and were bred by a well-known Milton breeder. My suppliers keep cows for production and not for show purposes. Another of our original suppliers, whilst possessing few cows of Jersey strain, is included not because of his high butter-fat test so much as because of his efficient handling of the milk during every stage of production. Cleanliness comes prior to quality, and it is our aim to lead in both. As I have never spoken to Mr Hellyer except in the conversation over the telephone already described, it is not open to him to write that I stated I could supply pure Jersey milk, nor was any advertisement displayed at the Winter Show to this effect. Mr Hellyer may therefore be advised to ascertain facts. I think from what has here been written that our Mayor’s Fund is entitled to £10 from Mr Hellyer. I regret having been drawn into this controversy, but you will receive no further letters from me upon this subject.
— I am, etc., Eric James, Manager James Jersey Dairies. June 17. -Otago Daily Times, 23/6/1933.
IMPERIAL EX-SERVICEMEN
ADDRESS BY MR E. JAMES
The monthly fixture arranged by the Social Committee of the imperial Exservicemen's Association was held in the R.S.A. rooms on Monday evening. There was a large number of members present, with their wives and friends. Before introducing the speaker for the evening, the chairman (Mr Lilly) briefly outlined legitimate schemes under way for the purpose of raising funds which were sorely needed, the most attractive being the arrival shortly from England of the film of the Aldershot Tattoo for public exhibition, the proceeds from which were expected materially to enlarge the treasury.
Mr Eric James, formerly a well-known guide, then commenced an interesting account of a three months' trip of exploration into little-known bush-clad territory in Western Otago, including the then unexplored John o' Groats Valley. A large number of excellently-produced colour slides was thrown on to the screen, many of which were unique. The route taken by this party, which comprised press and private photographers, was commenced, from Lake Wanaka five winters ago. They crossed Haast Pass to the West Coast, then southward over the Red Mountains, down the fertile Cascade Valley to the rugged coast to the south of Martin's Bay at a point whence the actual work of exploration commenced. The rough nature of the country could be judged, said the speaker, by the fact that four horses of the pack team were killed or injured and had to be destroyed at different stages, and half-wild brumbies had to be broken in at Martin's Bay to replace the casualties. The principal object of the trip was to find a practical overland route from a boat landing near the mouth of Milford Sound to the Hollyford track. In this direction the attempt was crowned with success, but owing to various reasons the attempt to locate known deposits of oil at Kaipo Bay had to be abandoned. The speaker described the trials of his lone and difficult trip of 13 days from the base camp to Milford, where he was to have been met by companions in a boat. The plans failed, and this boat failed to put in an appearance, necessitating a hurried, and anxious return on limited rations, which consisted of a handful of uncooked oatmeal and salt, a fire being out of the question owing to the heavy rainfall. In all, the party was three months beyond any communication. A good photographic record was obtained, two lakes were discovered, one of which possessed a subterranean outlet, and, judging by the outcrop of huge granite boulders on its shores, it must have been formed by an earthquake. Another unusual feature was that this lake rose and fell several feet at periodical intervals, but had no possible connection with the coastal tide. Early exploration, historical, geological, and other expeditions, and nboritve efforts at settlement were described. A hearty vote of thanks was accorded the speaker. -Otago Daily Times, 13/6/1934.
ROAD LINKING OTAGO AND WESTLAND
SOUTHLAND CRITICISM OF CHOICE OF ROUTE
(PRESS ASSOCIATION TELEGRAM.) INVERCARGILL, August 27.
The recent decision to construct the continuation of the West Coast road over the Haast Pass to Pembroke as opposed to the original suggestion was condemned at a meeting of the Southland Progress League to-night. The former suggestion, which was keenly advocated by West Coast residents, was that the road should run from Weheka past the mouth of the Haast river down the coast to Jackson’s Bay and thence via Big Bay and Lake McKerrow to Milford Sound.
The subject was raised in a letter from Mr Eric James, of Dunedin, who described the decision to proceed with the Haast Pass road in preference to the greater proposition of linking the Westland road system with the new Milford road as one of the greatest blunders of recent years. Mr D. J. Wesney said that the Milford road would open up some splendid farming country, whereas the Haast Pass road led only to bleak hinterland. -Press, 28/8/1936.
The following year, Eric James was drawn into the controversy around the pasteurisation of milk. He contended that heating the milk destroyed its vitamin content. He also opposed municipalisation, the supply to consumers from a centralised depot run by the city.
THE SPECIAL MILITARY FORCES
TO THE EDITOR. Sir, — The last draft to leave Dunedin, and probably previous drafts as well, included men of 50 years of age; one at least had a married son already in camp. These men no doubt “reduced” their age to become accepted. On the other hand, we find aimless youths loitering about the city, even occupying the children’s swing on the reserves, who, possessing no desire for work, find it an easy matter to avoid it, yet enjoy a misguided Government’s liberal sustenance allowance. Why has not the Government the courage to face up to the position and bring in conscription and uplift these youths physically and morally by much-needed army discipline? What a tremendous cost to the Dominion sending these family men away, and at the same time supporting in idleness young men of the type described! — I am, etc., Eric James. Dunedin. January 25. -Otago Daily Times, 26/1/1940.
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WAR CASUALTIES
LANCE-CORPORAL E. JAMES
Lance-corporal Eric James, whose death from wounds received in the recent fighting in the Middle East has been reported, was well known in business circles in Dunedin as the proprietor of James Jersey Dairies in Hanover street. Lance-corporal James, who was a veteran of the Great War, had been a resident of Dunedin for about 10 years. He enlisted over two years ago, and took part in the first Libyan campaign, subsequently going in Syria. Always keenly interested in mountaineering, Lance-corporal James was able to indulge in such activity while in camp in Syria, and a recent mail brought from him half a dozen seeds of the Syrian cedar tree, the writer expressing the hope that they would be successfully germinated in Dunedin. Lance-corporal James is survived by his wife and six children (four daughters and two sons), who reside at Mornington. His mother and father and one sister live in Sussex, England, where the deceased was born. -Otago Daily Times, 29/7/1942.
Eric James served in the 18th Battalion, 2NZEF, and died in the last days of the First Battle of El Alamein, one of about 3000 New Zealanders who were lost at the time.
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