I have already published the story of William O'Leary but I reread it recently and thought I Could do better. He was truly an interesting man and I'd love to find his campsite above "10-hour Gorge" one day.
OKURU NEWS
Mr W. O’Leary, now ferryman at Waitoto River, has recently returned from a trip to Dunedin, his first for several years and expresses surprise at the wonderful progress made in his native province during recent years. Mr O’Learv, who refers himself as "Arawata Bill,” is probably the most outstanding hermit in the Dominion. For many years he was engaged in prospecting in the isolated upper reaches of the Arawata River which was accessible only by a good day’s clamber through a very difficult and dangerous gorge known as the “Ten Hour Gorge.” The Valley here opens out into a large grassy flat and Mr O’Leary’s only neighbours were keas and a few fat rabbits. His kea friends were at times rather too “friendly” as when leaving his tent entrance one early morning a cheeky kea politely lifted his hat from his head and later made a mess of the tent. Mr O’Leary met many old acquaintances during his holiday and returned again very enthusiastic on gold prospecting. Our friend tried his luck at all the many amusements at Logan Park, even the slide, which he so enjoyed that he many times repeated. But he failed to sit comfortable in the modern coaches (cars), fearing every minute it might overturn in its wild and sudden dips, twists and turns. His first few moments in the car was unnerving and he found it necessary to hug the seat and the driver with rather too much force. He also cancelled his seat in the White Star cars, preferring the trains. -Hokitika Guardian, 5/6/1926.
OKURU NEWS.
(Our Own Correspondent.) OKURA April 7. Mr William O’Leary finished his term as ferryman at the Waitoto and Arawata Rivers last week, after an unbroken period of seven years. Bill has filled this office in a most efficient manner during the whole period, and has made many friends. He leaves for Glenorchy, Otago, via the Haast Pass, shortly. There he will form a party who will proceed under his leadership to an almost inaccessible region at the head waters of the Arawata River on a prospecting expedition. His base camp is already established on the Westland border, having been packed in from this side. -Grey River Argus, 27/4/1927.
WEST COAST ITEMS.
“Arawata Bill,” the unique and well-known West Coast hermit-prospector, has been offered the lonely post of ferryman at Waitoto river, in succession to Malcolm McKenzie, formerly of Martins Bay, who has resigned. But Bill cannot leave his promising claim many miles away in the extreme heart of the Alps. Wintry weather has driven him out temporarily, and he has now turned his activities to the nickel lode country below the Cascade. He is also seeking samples of the asbestos for a mining syndicate. Amongst Bill's recent discoveries is a huge waterfall, equal to the noted falls in the Hollyford valley. Bill now admits he is getting old for the game, having passed 70 and is now seeking a young partner. -Cromwell Argus, 1/10/1928.
An interesting letter received by a Wanaka resident from "Arawata Bill," the Alpine hermit and prospector, is as follows: Mr ____
Cant leave prospecting. Not making much headway yet verry hard verry cold don no good yet. Malcolm is leaving and they want me back wont go cant leave yet but might have to go soon will slack as long as i can there is 40 miles of nickle country and a good mine will be goot the ore can be goot in several creeks. there is a great Power stand head of Grassy flat the fall is 70 feet about 30 heads going over, I shoed Malcolm it he said it is eaquel to any fall in holiford river, there is some good asbestos in country behind it will get some for you later on am going down the coast to vesit a Greenstone lode that i vesited twenty vears ago i want to sea it again as it has been hunted for for along time cant go with turner as i have some high country to look that I think a lot of might get the rubies yet am close to them I got Parsell all right i would like to have a young strong man for a mate, to heavy carryin for one nearly nocked out living on White Baite just now soon be right again some fine trout here but no pipies for Bait. Bar blocked Malcolm lost his old horse cockie and his flour 50 was torn to pieces by his black dog.
Yours Truly, Wm. O'Leary, Arawata Bill,
nearly nocked out. must try and get a mate to much to carry for one. -Cromwell Argus, 8/10/1928.
MISSING PROSPECTOR.
(From a Correspondent). MAKAROA, May 18. Some concern has been caused by the non-appearance of William O’Leary, a prospector of the old school, better known as “Arawata Bill,” who set out from Okuru for Glenorchy, head of Lake Wakatipu in Otago, via the Arawata River and a high alpine pass known only to himself. Believed to have only five weeks’ provisions, the missing man failed to reach his destination and is now eight weeks overdue which brings it to 14 weeks since he left Okuru. A local party proposes to leave in the course of a few days if nothing is further heard to make a search. The unique life led by Bill in his remote vastness of the Southern Alps was described by wireless from the Wellington Broadcasting Station last night upon information supplied by Mr Samuel Turner F.R.G.S., Wellington, who knew of his qualifications as a bushman during the former’s Tutiko Expedition in the Hollyford Region of the Sounds district. -Hokitika Guardian, 25/5/1929.
Mr E. James has received telegraph communication to the effect Mr William O'Leary, the missing prospector, has turned up, but nothing was explained why he was so long overdue on his failure to reach Glenorchy or what he subsisted on during that long period. -Cromwell Argus, 3/6/1929.
This correspondent has received a letter from Mr W. O'Leary ("Arawata Bill") attempting to explain his long disappearance. It appears that he was interested in a patch of hard rock metal country and became so absorbed that he forgot the time until "no tucker" brought him to action. The snow also forced mm out. "Bill" is enthusiastic about this country and intends to return as soon as conditions allow. -Cromwell Argus, 1/7/1929.
HAPPY LONE FOSSICKER
HERMIT’S LIFE OF ROMANCE
Home In Heart of Alps
FOUND RUBIES, GOLD AND ASBESTOS
SELDOM in any book could be found such a romantic figure as William O’Leary, the hermit of the South Island West Coast, who in his wanderings has struck many quartz reefs, gold-bearing creeks, and traces of other minerals. He claims to have discovered rubies near Milford Sound, asbestos at Lake McKerrow and Cascade, and nickel in the Hope Valley. In Williamson Flat, a valley at the head of the Arawata River, he lives his lonely life.
Often 100 miles from any outpost homestead, “Arawata Bill,” as O’Leary is known, has for many years frequented remote regions. He is a prospector of the old school, hardy in spite of his 70-odd years of hardships. Exposed to conditions that would mean death to many of our modern men, he daily faces danger and risks in crossing the many rivers and mountain torrents for which that country is so noted. Traversing and climbing high and difficult alpine country without alpine equipment, crossing glaciers, ice and snowfields with only a piece of wood or at best an old wood-axe to cut his steps can only be successfully accomplished after much risk and practice. Under canvas all the year round, this hardy pioneer continues his search year in and year out. He gives the impression of the curious boy desiring to know what lies beyond yonder hill.
MINERAL FINDS In spite of aimless wanderings he has struck many quartz reefs, gold bearing creeks, etc., and country bearing other minerals. He claims to have discovered rubies near Milford Sounds, asbestos at Lake McKerrow and Cascade, and nickel in the Hope Valley. He is firmly of the opinion that Arawata Valley will be extensively dredged in the future. He is an optimist and brimful of enthusiasm. He spends often many months away on his own, emerging only when his provisions run out. On these few excursions he has a long, strenuous journey through difficult forest gorges, occupying two or three days, but which he accomplished in his younger days in one day, carrying 70lb and upward on his back. From the mouth of the gorge he has nearly 60 miles to go before Okuru, the nearest inhabited place, is reached. This necessitates crossing and recrossing the Arawata River several times, and three other rivers. He knows the back country and mountain ranges in Southern Westland and Western Otago, better than any man who ever ranged it.
LEFT CIVILISATION Although the only travellers were cattle musterers to the remote runs further south, averaging two or three a month, the life of a ferryman on the Arawata River was too civilised and domesticated for Bill. He longed for the mountains, and dreamed of vast quantities of golden treasure. During the Dunedin Exhibition, Bill decided to go to see the sights. He started off, riding over the Haast Pass to Hawea Flat, which occupied four days. He rode up to the Lakeside Accommodation House, and the following morning, showing signs of keen excitement, he began his journey to Dunedin, and his first motorcar journey. Unfortunately for Bill the accommodation house is situated on top of a hill, and the road from it is a curving descent. Somehow the sudden and strange motion of the Ford put Bill off his balance and he found himself clinging to the driver and steering wheel in his fright. Bill was to be driven to Cromwell to connect with the motor service, but he changed his mind and went by train.
ENJOYED THE CITY Bill's appearance in the city in his bush clothes and heavy-nailed boots attracted more than usual attention. After many unsuccessful attempts, a high red handkerchief was procured, which was neatly donned as a tie. Bill made for the “show,” and had the time of his life, especially when he met another old-timer he knew. A few months ago Bill resolved to cross again to Glenorchy, via a high mountain pass known only to himself. His non-appearance at his destination and long absence caused some uneasiness, and eventually a search party was organised to seek him, but he arrived before the party set out. The Press heard that “Arawata Bill’’ was missing, and 2YA broadcasting station also sent out the information. He is not fond of the limelight, and views publicity with suspicion. But an account of his long, lonesome prospecting expeditions would fill volumes. To geologists aud alpinists entering the interesting southwestern coast his information is invaluable and reliable. His headquarters, Williamson Flat, a valley at the head of the Arawata River, is situated in an almost inaccessible part of the Alps, and surrounded by towering peaks, mostly in the vicinity of 8,000 feet, with numerous glistening glaciers and icefields. In the early summer avalanches may be seen almost hourly, both night and day. A Dunedin party which successfully climbed Mount Aspiring, the highest peak in the locality, two seasons ago, penetrated to O'Leary’s haunts, and saw the remains of one of his camps. The members describe this wild spot as an extremely beautiful mountain locality. No wonder Bill finds it hard to remain away long from his own world in the Alps.
ERIC JAMES. -Sun, 18/1/1930.
Mr W. O’Leary, better known as “Arawata Bill,” is said to have found evidence (tunnels, etc.) of early mining in the head of the Arawata Valley at a high level. A carved date distinctly showed three figures, 187, while the fourth appeared to be either 2 or 4. To this discovery Bill attaches much importance and has left via the Hollyford for Dunedin to seek financial assistance for further investigations.
While on his outward journey he spent a few weeks seeking a grove of extra large tree ferns in the Pyke Valley said to have been imported from the South Seas and planted as a landmark and which Bill believes has a connection with his discoveries in the Arawata. -Hokitika Guardian, 22/8/1930.
The story of an old prospector's lifelong search for a cache of gold, said to be worth £30,000 is told in the magazine “Touring." The gold, packed in a sea-boot, was hidden somewhere in a river’s mouth on the west coast of the South island, by a party from Australia about 60 years ago. The locality is believed to be either the Arawata or the Cascade Rivers, to the north of Milford Sound, and William O’Leary, better known as Arawata Bill, is still searching for it and confident that he will eventually succeed. The secret of the cacche was revealed to an old prospector by a man who had wandered, starving and exhausted, into a South Island township, and who had been hurried to hospital, where a vain attempt was made to nurse him back to health. His story was that, along with another man, he had been landed from a ship which had sailed from Australia to “plant” the stolen gold. This they did, but, thinking to outwit the rest of the ship’s company, they hid in the bush. Finally the ship sailed, and they were abandoned in wild, inhospitable country, where the second man died. No definite information as to the whereabouts of the gold was left, but Arawata Bill is convinced it is still somewhere near the mouth of the Arawata River. He once discovered a fragment of a letter written in 187~, the last figure too indistinct to decipher, and evidently he still hopes to find the treasure. Thin, wiry, active, with the stump of a grey beard projecting defiantly from his chin, he is known over a wide area of Southland. Last year a party of trampers who were lost in the bush, found refuge in his slab shed, where they managed to exist until rescued by aeroplane. -Hawera Star, 28/9/1934.
GUMBOOT OF GOLD
Lost Treasure in Wilds of South Westland
"ARAWATA BILL’S” HUNT
Many New Zealanders must have heard of “Arawata Bill”; very few have seen him. In fact, he is almost a legendary figure. Yet in spite of his 74 years William O'Leary, to give him his correct name, is very much alive and kicking (says the “Southland Times”). When he comes out from the never-never land of South Westland with his hair touching his shoulders and his beard brushing his chest, he may look like an old man of the mountains; but his legs are more nimble than most young men's, his eyesight is still keen and his wits are ever on the alert. "Arawata Bill” was for many years ferryman on the river which gave him his nickname. But at heart he is a fossicker for gold, a lone adventurer, a contradiction of the contention that man is a gregarious animal. All he requires for company is his devoted old mare; and even her he turns loose once he reaches his favourite haunts among the Red Hills which lie well to the north of Martin’s Bay. The few whose ways have lain through the regions over which "Arawata Bill” has roamed have come across shelters in most unexpected places. In these crude camps the recluse has perhaps spent the greater part of a year, existing where most men would die of exposure. No one in the world knows the secrets of the Red Hills as does "Arawata Bill.” He knows exactly where a ruby mine is located, where colours will appear in a dish and where many substances less valuable than gold but with a distinct market price are to be found.
But there is one secret he has not probed. The story runs that many years ago a party of foreigners who had been prospecting in northern Fiordland struck gold in rich quantity. After they had secured a fair amount they were forced to return to civilisation in a starving condition. Only one survived the journey— and he had to cache the gold in a gumboot belonging to one of the dead members of the party. He reached civilisation in such a debilitated condition that he preferred to take ship for his own country rather than face a journey into the forest again. If the tale be true, the gumboot filled with gold is still in Fiordland — and "Arawata Bill” hopes he is the man who is going to find it. Through living alone in the bush for so many years he has abnormally developed the senses of sight, hearing and smell. Once when he had gone to a South Westland township for supplies some “smart alecks” jumped to the conclusion that he had found a rich mine; so one of them followed him back. The tracker proved most efficient and trailed his man without detection till the old fossicker set to work in a small clearing. From a vantage point away up in the bush the watcher gazed at the old man. Then he felt the need of a smoke and lit his pipe. Twice did “Arawata Bill” pause in his work and look round suspiciously. The next time he straightened himself to look about him and he shouted out: “Come out of that wherever you are. I can smell you.” In spite of the distance separating him from the smoker the old man's sense of smell had conveyed a warning message to him. “Arawata Bill” has an amazing store of knowledge of bird and animal life; and has seen that rarity, a white kiwi. Having well passed man’s allotted span he now finds that wintering alone in Fiordland is rather arduous. Until spring returns he is content to live in that pretty spot on the shore of Lake Wakatipu, Elfin Bay. But with his faithful old mare he will no doubt make for the Red Hills when the days lengthen again. Perhaps he will reach the goal of his ambition — a gumboot worth many times its weight in gold. -Dominion, 14/5/1935.
“ARAWATA BILL" VISITS TOWN
An interesting personality of Otago’s out-back spaces, Mr William O’Leary, is at the moment a visitor to the city. This name may not convey any note of familiarity to the average citizen, consequently it is necessary to explain that if masks the identity of "Arawata Bill,” lone wolf of the Back o Beyond, whose stamping ground is on the West Coast ranges from the Haast River south to Milford Sound. There is no living individual who knows this isolated and sparsely-populated region of forest wasteland as does the subject of this notice. For half a century he has roamed the coastal and mountainous areas of this vast undeveloped country, a land of promise, in which there are thousands of acres of fertile soil favoured by an exceptionally mild climate eminently suitable, were the necessary access provided, for close settlement. Meantime, Arawata Bill reigns as the undisputed ruler of a kingdom which will, from its mineral and agricultural potentialities, in the course of time support a population of many thousands of people. It is the last great stronghold in the dominion where Nature has successfully withstood the onslaught of mankind. Although approaching man’s allotted span of life, Arawata Bill is an alert, active figure, possessed of a wealth, of Nature lore acquired in the school of hard experience such as few are so fortunate as to attain. The veteran’s visit to the city was necessitated owing to his having to consult a medical specialist for a minor ailment. In the course of a few days he will return to his winter quarters at the mouth of the Greenstone River, Elfin Bay, Lake Wakatipu. From there, with the advent of spring, he once again takes the trail up the Greenstone River, crossing into the Hollyford Valley, continuing up the Pyke River, to reach his home country in the Red Hills, that weird region where, owing to the preponderance of mineral salts contained in the country rock, vegetation does not exist. -Evening Star, 26/6/1935.
UNEXPLOITED RICHES
POSSIBILITIES Of WEST COAST
“ARAWATA BILL" SPEAKS
“This traffic fair makes me jump out of my skin sometimes,” confessed Mr William O’Leary to a reporter as they walked down the street yesterday. And no wonder, for Mr O’Leary, perhaps better known as “Arawata Bill,” has spent almost a lifetime in the rugged forest-clad country that lies between Okuru and Milford Sound.
He has the appearance of a typical pioneer, erect and agile despite his three score and ten years, and is a walking advertisement for the free life of the wilds. Arawata Bill was born at Weatherstones when it was a flourishing mining settlement, but later drifted across the island to the tall timber country and has since worked at many callings. He has been a ferryman on rivers the southern portion of the West Coast, he has washed for gold on the river banks and found mica and asbestos, in addition to acting as guide to parties surveying the wild country between Wakatipu and the coast.
The road at present being constructed to Milford Sound is regarded as an epoch-making event, and Bill looks forward to the not-so-very-distant future when the fertile country about the Hollyford and surrounding valleys will be taken up. He is loud in his praises of the grazing in that district where the rivers have brought down, in places, soil 15ft deep and formed wide flat areas, measured m thousands of acres, ideal for cattle. At the present time there is a large number of wild cattle, the legacy of a former settler who allowed them their freedom when he left the district; but regular cattle-owners are few and far between.
The value of the timber in that country is stressed by Arawata Bill, who says that there are wide areas of silver and black pine and totara. The silver pine is particularly valuable, he says, and would make fine telegraph posts. Referring to the damage caused by the deer in the bush the speaker said that in places the undergrowth was completely wiped out. Several years ago where he could scarcely force a passage through the thick mass of vines and creepers, to-day it was possible to gallop a horse through without difficulty. These animals were also killing off the young trees before they reached maturity, being particularly partial to the tender totara shoots.
The possibilities of this region were stressed by Arawata Bill who said that he had found in addition to asbestos and mica, manganese and hematite. Gold is also to be found and several good reefs and leads have been tried by Arawata Bill. Asbestos is to be found from Waihi to Milford and there are mica deposits at the head of Lake McKerrow. These are not of great value, however, as the mineral flakes off in pieces about an inch square; but between Lake Parenga and the Blue River pieces four inches by one have been found actually on the road. In the opinion of the speaker there is a good possibility of a successful mine being operated. Oil has also been found at Madagascar Beach near the south of Milford Sound. In fact, some years ago arrangements were almost completed for the formation of a German company to exploit the deposit, but the outbreak of hostilities put a stop to it. There have also been found garnets, sapphires, and a few rubies.
Attractions to sportsmen are varied, trout up to 16lb are the rule rather than the exception, and every river and lake in the country teems with them. On occasions when he has been fishing for mullet, using pipis for bait Arawata Bill has pulled up two trout on the line. Deer of the Virginian red, and fallow species abound in spite of the efforts of the cullers, and it is not uncommon to see herds of 30 or more. Reports of Wapiti have also been received, but as yet these are not numerous and are confined to the country more to the south.
“Well, I’ll go and get my watch,” said Arawata Bill at the conclusion of the interview. “I’ve had it for about 20 years and it is still going well. Needs a clean out now and then though. Yes, it is a long time, but I’ve had my horse for, I suppose, fifteen years,” he said as he stepped gingerly into the lift and held his breath as it started on its downward trip. “Oer! I thought it had dropped away from me when it started.” -Evening Star, 28/6/1935.
A HERMIT COMES TO TOWN
[By The Vagabond.]
Arawata Bill is “going gay.” Following his visit last winter after a decade’s absence, the bright lights of the city have once again lured him from his mountain lair. It is seldom that Dunedin has the opportunity of entertaining a real live hermit of such world-wide distinction, for Bill is just as well known overseas as locally. He is modest to a degree, and nothing has yet been invented which he detests so cordially as the spotlight of publicity. His first remark after I greeted him yesterday — Bill and I are old “pals” of the outback trail — was: "Don’t put anything in the paper about me this time.” Bill doesn’t appreciate the point that from a journalist’s point of view he constitutes “news” of value. However, I would respect his wishes were it not for the fact that Arawata has many friends in the city whose acquaintanceship has been cemented amid the granite canyons of Fiordland, who would welcome the opportunity of once again meeting him.
To the townsman it may appear paradoxical to remark that one can feel very lonely in a city, but never so in the outback spaces. For the greater part of the year Arawata Bill never looks upon the face of his fellow man. Not that he isn’t a sociable man when in company. He just prefers it that way. Environment has endowed him with the hermit complex. He finds his greatest happiness when alone. And when all’s said and done is not happiness the goal we all seek in life, and yet find so elusive of attainment?
Bill finds the street traffic most confusing. I can sympathise with him there. When one has not seen a motor car for 12 months on end one has to watch one’s step. It takes a day or two to get acclimatised to the crossing of a busy intersection.
Since his visit to Dunedin last winter Arawata Bill has been camped at the upper end of Lake Alabaster, in the Martin’s Bay area, prospecting what he terms a “crater” lead. This comprises the involvement of a thin band of highly-mineralised strata in the country rock, which in this area is composed of granite. This formation differs from the schists of the Wakatipu area across the Main Divide in that it is not gold bearing. It is the precious stones — garnet, ruby, and sapphire — of which Bill has found traces, which he hopes to locate in quantity. He has traced this lead for over 100 miles across the rugged shoulders of the Skippers and Olivine Ranges. An optimist of super-grade, Bill talks in terms of thousands of pounds, and of the day when he will make his big strike.
Active as a man half his age, Arawata Bill, in years now beyond life’s allotted span, appears good enough to carry on for many a day yet on his self-imposed mission in life. And his famous old mare is as sound as ever. -Evening Star, 18/7/1936.
IN UNKNOWN COUNTRY
THE OLIVINE ICE PLATEAU
A "FORGOTTEN" RIVER
Contributed by E. H. S. (excerpt)
Bad weather again held them up at the Dredge Huts in the Dart, but three days were very pleasantly spent there in the company of "Arawata Bill" who was also weather-bound at the huts on his return from an unsuccessful attempt to cross into the Joe River by O'Leary Pass. Many an interesting tale of early experience was told by this hardy old-timer of nearly 80 years of age, as the three men sat round the fire and watched the billy boil, while outside the rain poured incessantly, and the Dart, which had to be forded before further progress could be made, rose steadily higher. -Otago Daily Times, 13/3/1937.
The following story concerning "Arawata Bill," an old man who lives the life of a hermit in the wilds of Northwestern Otago, was told by Mr J. T. Holloway at a meeting of the Otago branch of the Royal Society of New Zealand last night: — "Arawata Bill" was once encountered on the slopes of Mount Victoria by Mr Holloway's exploratory party. He was heavily laden with food and materials, and was wearing gum boots, and, as unusually deep snow covered the mountain, the old man was hard put to it to negotiate a pass. He was cutting steps with a long-handled shovel, and stated he had crossed that way 36 years ago and did not see why he should not do it again. -Evening Star, 12/5/1937.
AMIDST WINTER SNOWS
I. — THE DART VALLEY
By J. F. F. (excerpt)
The lowest point In this part of the Dart Barrier Range, O’Leary Pass, is a place of interest to all those familiar with the exploits of the celebrated “Arawata Bill.” Repulsed again on his most recent attempt, it is now some years since this plucky veteran has reached his happy hunting ground, the Joe River, by this route. Our respect for William O’Leary increases when we realise that he attempts, with no more formidable equipment than a long-handled shovel, a pass in which the rock ledges have baffled those alpinists who have been curious enough to investigate them. Undaunted by recent failures, "Arawata” intends to try again next season. -Otago Daily Times, 17/9/1938.
"ARAWATA BILL”
With a flower in his buttonhole, Arawata Bill comes to town once or twice a week from his shack along the One Mile Road. Ask the Queenstown children if they have seen W. J. O’Leary lately, and they will shake their heads as though, they had never heard of the man, but if you mention "Arawata Bill," recognition is immediate. And that is the name Mr O’Leary himself prefers.
After a life-time spent on the West Coast, the old man has retired from road-mending and prospecting and is now living near Queenstown. The change from the lonely fastnesses of “the Coast’’ to civilisation has been a big one but Arawata Bill is proving adaptable to changing conditions. Only occasionally he feels that he must get back to the Coast ‘some day.’
Born at Wetherstones (now famed for the gold of its daffodils ) in the days of the gold rush in 1864, William James O’Leary early felt the lure of the precious metal. He went to the Lindis, Manorburn, the Dart and other places in the search for gold. He has lived a wanderer’s life — timber-felling at Burwood, cattle-droving and road-mending between Jackson's Bay and Martin’s Bay, and prospecting at every opportunity.
Although he has chosen to retire among the mountains, his heart is still on the Coast. Ever and anon his conversation turns to the life there — the climate, the wonderful forest trees, the men be knew, and the mosquitos! He continually repeats the words, "It’s great mineral country over there!"
Arawata Bill knows every inch of the West Coast road, for his nickname was gained during the years when he kept the track clear between Martin’s Bay and Jackson’s Bay, a distance of approximately 87 miles. He had an old horse which was both companion and burden-bearer. It was bred at Jackson’s. Bay and had its own ideas as to where it should go. On one occasion he was riding down to the Hollyford, a new road for the horse, and several times it bolted homewards and was with great difficulty persuaded to go forward.
Arawata Bill was, well-known as a guide to tourists on the Coast and has been photographed frequently in the course of his work.
The country on the coast due west from Lake Wakatipu has a wonderfully mild climate and a good deal of cattle-fattening is carried on, is a great growth of lotus major, a fine clover for fattening stock. The timber in that area is mostly red pine, with the rarer silver pine which is very similar to kauri. Wild cattle, however, are destroying the undergrowth with the result that young trees are becoming scarcer. The settlement at Martin’s Bay is comparatively old, a hut there shewing evidence of having been built in 1866. The only drawbacks to the mild climate and splendid bush are the mosquitos which are large, numerous, and voracious.
Once when the Haast River was in flood — a common occurrence owing to the frequent rains —Arawata Bill’s friends in the locality declared that he could not cross. He laughed at them and rode on through the flood. He turned to wave triumphantly as he neared the opposite bank — and suddenly horse and rider disappeared! They had gone into a deep hole, but the horse being sure-footed and the rider experienced in fording rivers, they quickly bobbed up again and soon reached the bank in safety
The minerals of the Coast were, and are, of absorbing interest to Arawata Bill. He says that almost every known mineral has been found over there. He himself had no special luck in prospecting for gold, although he found some nice little nuggets on various occasions. Cinnabar and platinum, manganese, rubies, white sapphires, garnets, mica, coal, copper and oil have all been found by Arawata Bill in the course of his peregrinations. In most, cases, unfortunately, the minerals were present in only small quantities.
At Lake Alabaster and Madagascar Beach there, is shale which will, burn with a match.
While working on the Copeland hot spring track, Arawata Bill discovered that the two hot springs, Waiho and Copeland, are on a creator lode which runs right through the country. This lode is valuable, the minerals found in it varying according to the type of country through which it passes. Thus, if it is of granite formation, rubies or garnets are found; if of schist or slate, it bears a quartz reef, if glass rock, there is a likelihood of mica being present. Mica, both white and yellow, is plentiful at the head of Lake McKerrow. This lode meets another in Red Hills, which contains a body of pure iron ore about three feet wide. Asbestos is found between the Martha and Cascade Rivers. According to Arawata Bill, there is no shortage of iron or asbestos in the South Island, which he considers is a great mineral island.
Arawata Bill came to Queenstown just before Christmas and has settled down for the winter, but he is looking forward to visiting the Centennial Exhibition in Wellington at the end of the year, planning to travel by way of the well-remembered tracks of the West Coast. -Lake Wakatip Mail, 18/7/1939.
“ARAWATA BILL”
FIFTY YEARS IN THE FAR SOUTH LIFE IN BUSH ON WEST COAST
More than 50 years a resident — often the sole resident — of a huge and almost completely unknown region of the West Coast, the Arawata Valley, a West Coast pioneer has now left the place he knew as home for more than 50 years, to retire in Dunedin. He is Mr William O’Leary, but to many West Coasters, and indeed to many others in New Zealand and a few abroad, he is known by repute — by legend almost — as “Arawata Bill.’’ “Arawata Bill” took his name from his years of solitary living in the valley that gave him the title. A typical bearded bushman of the West Coast’s early days, Mr O’Leary has a fund of stories about one of the least known and most picturesque regions of New Zealand. Now old but still straight and with a wiry physique, he is a keen supporter for the development of the South Westland and South-West Otago — a district which he probably knows as well as any men living.
Mr O’Leary still retains a keen memory, and with it, an enthusiasm that the years have not dimmed for the Arawata country. “It is wonderful country,” he said in a newspaper interview, “and some day it will be opened up. It’s grand cattle country, especially around the Arawata river and the Waitoto. There are many cattle there — a lot of them wild — and they all do well.”
Mr O’Leary had many memories of prospecting. “In some parts there’s a good deal of gold to be won,’’ he said. “I’m picking that one day they will dredge the Arawata river.” About 18 miles of the river, he claimed, could be dredged, and much of the bed was crushed quartz. He spoke, too, of “blacksanding” on the beach near Bruce Bay. Every 10 years or so, he said, the sea seemed to throw up gold in rich quantities.
Mr O’Leary’s earliest days on the West Coast accustomed him to live in solitude. One job he had for years was to keep open a track between the Haast and Pringle creek. No one lived within miles of him. While he held that job he explored the huge territory running to the west of the cold lakes, and extending as far south as Milford. His home was a tent pitched on a flat alongside the Arawata, but in his wanderings through the country he spent many a night in caves and what other natural shelter he could find. For many years he had one constant companion — a horse which he bought as a three-year-old and used for nearly 20 years. A first-class swimmer, it had carried him over many streams — and to this day those streams are still unbridged. In such country, there were many hardships attached to living alone. Once he had a bad fall, and injured himself severely. He had to set out on a nightmare ride on horseback to civilisation — in Otago. When he reached Kinloch, at the head of Lake Wakatipu, the horse fell in a hole, and had to be destroyed. Alone, Mr O’Leary had to complete on foot the final stages of a painful journey. Now, he is a keen gardener and a keen reader — and a willing conversationalist when the talk is of the far west. -Press, 13/7/1946.
ARAWATA BILL SLEEPS OUT AGAIN
Prospecting fever and the call of the back-country of Central Otago combined to entice Mr William O’Leary, better known as “Arawata Bil," away from the comforts of the Sacred Heart Home at Anderson’s Bay to his old haunts in the Queenstown district. The Little Sisters of the Poor made every effort to dissuade the 85-year-old prospector from going to Central Otago But he was adamant. He caught a bus for Queenstown, his headquarters for many years, and tried to return to the life he knew and enjoyed.
That was over a week ago. Now Mr O’Leary is back at the Sacred Heart Home and at the moment he is convinced that his prospecting days are over. He spent a few days in bed and is none the worse for his adventure. "It’s a good bed," he told one of the sisters. "It’s better than lying out under a tree.’’ The sisters are amazed that a man of 85 years of age could do what Mr O’Leary has done in the past few days and not be in the throes of pneumonia.
Every now and again since he came to live in Dunedin "Arawata Bill" has felt periodic urges to return to the back-country and resume his wandering life, and the most recent impulse was stronger than usual. He wanted.to go in search of a tin dish he had stowed away in the Queenstown area and prove to anyone at the home that he could still find gold. He went to Queenstown and began his prospecting.
It was unfortunate that the cold change in the weather should have coincided with the old man's return to the Lake Country, for he was forced to sleep out under a tree and the snow was thick on the ground. “Arawata Bill’s” early life must have stood him in good stead for he is none the worse for the adventure.
Born at Wetherstones shortly after Gabriel Read discovered gold in the district, Mr O’Leary lived a wanderer’s life until he retired about eight years ago and went to live near Queenstown. His hut on the One Mile road was perhaps a little too near the country he loved and he came to live at the Sacred Heart Home at Anderson’s Bay. At one time he was prospecting at the Lindis, at Manorburn, the Dart, and, in fact, in most parts of the Lake Country. A lot of his time was spent in the little known Arawata country and it was because of his association with this river that he received his nick-name.
The sisters at the Sacred Heart Home hope that this will be the last of the old wanderings and that he will settle down to life in civilisation. But “Arawata Bill” will no doubt always cast a nostalgic eye over his shoulder to the hills of Central Otago and the country where he spent more than half a century. -Otago Daily Times, 4/7/1947.
“Cold, It was Cold as ____." Said “Arawata Bill”
In an interview with a Mail representative “Arawata Bill” Mr W. O’Leary made it quite clear that his last expedition to Queenstown and Arrow had convinced him that his days of roaming the countryside were finished, and he admits that he is fortunate that his latest wanderings did not result in a serious illness.
Now well in his eighties “Arawata Bill ” finds his memory failing and the next trip he takes he hopes it will he to see his sister who resides in Wellington.
A native of Lawrence, Mr O’Leary spent most of his youthful days in that district eventually migrating to the West Coast where he took a job as ferryman on the ferry which plied the Arawata River which flows into Jackson’s Bay on the West Coast. This job lasted for about five years and it was there that Mr O’Leary earned the title of “Arawata Bill.” From there he took up a roaming existence prospecting in the vicinity of the Arawata and Red Mountains on the West Coast. While he never struck it rich he claims that he was never really broke. On one occasion he fell over a 70ft cliff without suffering any serious permanent injury. His recent visit to Queenstown and Arrow was prompted by a desire to renew old friendships but from what he had to say the trip was far from being a holiday jaunt. When asked if he did not find it too cold sleeping out at this time of the year, he replied, “Cold, it was cold as ____.” After wandering round for seven or eight days in this area Arawata Bill was taken back to his home with the Little Sisters at Anderson’s Bay, Dunedin, which he now admits is a pretty good sort of a place. -Lake County Mail, 9/7/1947.
“ARAWATA BILL”
DEATH OF WELL-KNOWN FIGURE
HERMIT OF THE FAR WEST
Right up to his death at the weekend, Mr William O’Leary, better known in Otago as “Arawata Bill,” felt the urge to return to the mountains and the rivers of South-West Otago where he spent the greater part of his long and rather lonely life. Only a week before his death in hospital he had wandered away from the Sacred Heart Home conducted by the Little Sisters of the Poor at Anderson’s Bay and had vowed that he was going to Queenstown to resume his prospecting life in the little-known country to the west. His strength unfortunately was not equal to his spirit, for he took ill in the city and had to be taken to hospital. He died still thinking of the Arawata country.
Lure of the West Coast Born at Wetherstones in 1864, Mr O’Leary early felt the call of adventure. At the age of 12 he ran away from home, but, though his bid for freedom was on this occasion unsuccessful, it was not long before he was able to begin his wandering life in earnest. He took a variety of jobs all over Otago, but it was not until he was working on a station near St. Bathan’s that he paid his first visit to the West Coast and was captivated by it. His nickname was gained during the years when he kept the track clear between Martin’s Bay and Jackson’s Bay, a distance of about 37 miles. He had a horse 22 years of age and it was his only companion during those lonely years in the little-known parts of the south-west. He had his main camp for many years on a flat beside the Arawata River and it formed the headquarters for many prospecting trips.
Rich in Minerals The minerals of South-West Otago were of absorbing interest to Arawata Bill who vowed that cinnabar, platinum, manganese, rubies, white sapphires, coal, oil and copper had been discovered by him in his wanderings. He did a lot of prospecting for gold but did not come across any worth-while claims, although he believed it would be profitable to dredge the Arawata River. He also believed that iron and asbestos were to be found in the district.
In 1939, Arawata Bill went to live at Queenstown and from there visited the centennial exhibition at Wellington. He did not take kindly to life in “civilisation” but made frequent trips back to his old haunts. A few years ago he came to Dunedin and lived at the Sacred Heart Home. From there he made one determined bid this year to return to the Arawata country, but, after sleeping under a tree one night in a snow-storm, he was willing to return to the city. It was at the beginning of another such jaunt that he became ill and was admitted to hospital. Mr O’Leary was held in high regard at the Sacred Heart Home. He was a keen gardener and a raconteur who was seldom without a circle of listeners. -Otago Daily Times, 11/11/1947.
“ARAWATA BILL”
Memorial Stone To Be Put Up
“The Press” Special Service DUNEDIN, May 16.
With the erection of a simple memorial stone over an unmarked grave in the Andersons bay cemetery, trampers in Southland and Otago hope to preserve the memory of the late William O’Leary, better known as “Arawata Bill,” a legendary figure of the Hollyford and North-west Otago country. After living the last years of his life in the Little Sisters of the Poor home for the aged at Andersons Bay, “Arawata Bill” died at the age of 82. Born at Wetherstones, near Lawrence, in 1865, Mr O’Leary, the son of a goldminer, showed an early inclination to wander, and at the age of 12 he ran away from home with a companion a little older than himself, who wished to become a bushranger. Their freedom, however, was short-lived, and they were soon brought home. In the summer of 1898, Mr O’Leary first went to Martins Bay on a prospecting expedition, and it was in the remote valleys of North-west Otago that he was to spend the next 45 years fossicking for gold and exploring. A figure well known to the residents of the Wakatipu district, as well as to an earlier generation of trampers and climbers, “Arawata Bill” now lies in the Andersons Bay cemetery, and so that his memory and explorations will not be forgotten, the Southland Tramping Club is sponsoring an appeal for funds to cover the costs of a memorial stone. -Press, 11/5/1958.
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