THREE KILLED
TRAGEDY ON A MOUNTAIN.
SLIDE ON 1000-FOOT SNOW SLOPE.
CLIMBER MISSES A STEP.
(Per Press Association.) DUNEDIN, March 28. A mountaineering tragedy which resulted in the loss of three lives, occurred at Mount Trent, near Lake Ohau, yesterday. Those killed were:
Svmon D. Divers, of Dunedin, aged 24.
George M. Edwards, of Dunedin, aged 21.
Roy Stevenson, of Oamaru, aged about 18.
Twenty-one climbers from Dunedin and Oamaru were in a party which had arranged to scale Mount Trent during the holidays. The party left Oamaru on Thursday night by car and spent Friday packing gear to a high camp at the head of the north branch of the Huxley River, making ready for the ascent yesterday. Nineteen of the party set out on the expedition.
The mountain carried many snow patches and the surface was difficult to cut into with ice axes for the making of steps. The party divided into five groups, each group being roped.
Good progress was made, and the leading party, in charge of Gordon Edwards, brother of George Edwards, was the first to reach the top, realising the aim of making the first conquest of the peak. Almost immediately upon this success news was received from the following climbers that three youths had been hurled to death. Divers, George Edwards, and Stevenson formed the final party in the ascent, Stevenson being in the middle of the trio.
When they were about 7000 feet up, Stevenson, in avoiding a falling stone, failed to got his foot into one of the steps cut by the leading climbers. The three young men were on a steep snow slope on which small rocks were .scattered.
Stevenson stumbled and jerked his two companions out of their steps. Though George Edwards delayed the fall for a few seconds, the weight of his companions pulled him off his feet, and the three young men were launched on a 1000-foot slide over hard snow to death.
The well-known climbers, W. G. McClymont and Russell Edwards, another brother of George Edwards, immediately started down the slope, reaching the bottom an hour later to discover the three youths dead.
Arrangements were made to bring out the bodies, which are on a glacier 6000 feet above sea level. -Ashburton Guardian, 29/3/1937.
ALPINE TRAGEDY
RECOVERY OF BODIES
TRANSPORT DIFFICULTIES
PARTY SUFFERING FATIGUE
[by telegraph - own correspondent] DUNEDIN, Tuesday. Details of the difficulties facing the party which is engaged in recovering the bodies of the three youths who were killed in the accident on Mount Trent, near Lake Ohau, on Saturday, were given to-day by Messrs. 11. J. Stevenson, of Weston, and Eric Burns, of Oamaru, who returned to Oamaru from the Huxley Gorge, where they have been assisting in the work.
Their reports indicate that the task of transporting the bodies to the road head is of the most difficult and hazardous nature, owing to the precipitous nature of the country and the numerous boulder-strewn creek beds. While the party was at present making progress at the anticipated rate, it was stated that the men engaged were suffering from fatigue and from the effects of continued rain, and the bodies might not reach Oamaru until Friday night.
Terrible Fall Mr. Stevenson said that the three young men were within 60ft. of the summit of Mount Trent when the accident occurred, and they must have fallen 1000 ft. or 1500ft. down the precipitous mountainside on to the neve or top snows of the glacier below. Death must have been practically instantaneous.
The party of 17 men which set out on Sunday to recover the bodies took all that day to transport them to the first ice-fall of the glacier. The bodies were found at an altitude of about 6000ft., and were brought to the 5000 ft. level that day. Mr. Stevenson joined a party which set out on Monday morning from the base camp, and reached the other party at noon, the climb to the glacier taking four hours.- The bodies wore carried over the icefield or snow plateau and hauled by ropes up the face of a 100 ft. cliff to a ridge, 1-1 men being required on ropes at the cliff top. From there they were lowered down the steep mountainside to the snout of an unnamed glacier at about the 3500 ft. level It was work of a most exhausting nature.
Hazardous Route "It is hoped," said Mr. Stevenson, "to bring the bodies to the packhorses by to-morrow night, but as the route lies over five miles of rough boulder-strewn creek bed with steep banks and heavy bush, it is possible that the trip may take two days and that the packhorses will not be reached until Thursday night. From there another four miles have to be traversed to the road head, so that it will be either Thursday or Friday night before Oamaru is reached."
Mr. J. A. Sim, of Dunedin. has gone out with provisions, which will be packed to the base camp by Mr. Preston, of Glen Lyon Station, who has already provided the packhorses required for the outward journey. There are 17 men still in the party, but they are all suffering from fatigue and the effects of the soaking rains, and it is possible that if the last part of the outward trip proves too difficult for the men in their exhausted condition, fresh men will be required to complete the task. -NZ Herald, 31/3/937.
SAD ORDEAL OVER
BODIES OF ALPINE VICTIMS BROUGHT HOME
TWENTY MEN ENGAGED IN HAZARDOUS TASK
DISLODGED BOULDER CADSED TRAGEDY
[Special to the ‘Star.’] OAMARU, April 2. Looking dishevelled and weary, but with the air of men with a hard task completed, the members of the party who were engaged in bringing out the three bodies of the victims of the Mount Trent tragedy, Messrs G. M. Edwards and S. D. Divers (Dunedin) and Roy Stevenson (Oamaru) arrived at Oamaru early this morning. The first party arrived at 12.30 a.m., and the others followed at various intervals.
All showed the effects of long exposure to wind and rain, and the traverse of particularly difficult and dangerous country, but nevertheless all evinced manifestations of gratitude at the safe accomplishment of one of the most hazardous and exhausting feats of alpine work in the history of mountaineering in New Zealand.
HAZARDOUS JOURNEY. Some idea of the magnitude of the task of bringing out the bodies was detailed to a reporter by the members of the first party home. Mount Trent (8,300ft) is situated on the main divide of the Southern Alps, and contains many difficulties known to alpinists in this country because of its position at the head of the Huxley Valley. The mountain has previously withstood the efforts of alpinists to reach its summit, but during Easter a combined effort was made by the members of the Dunedin Alpine Club, assisted by one Oamaru member. Four members only reached the top; the tragedy, occurring early on Saturday afternoon, caused the others near the top to abandon the attempt.
The difficulties confronting the members in recovering and bringing out the bodies were soon made manifest. The party commenced to recover the bodies from the ice fall down which they had fallen, over 1,000ft. This task involved the difficult feat of hauling the remains up the precipice and lowering them on to Gosos Glacier (discovered by Messrs H. Stevenson, A. Gilkison, Ombler, and O’Riley).
The magnitude of this accomplishment is exemplified by the fact that the whole of Sunday was required to complete the task, over 20 men assisting. The bodies were slid over the snow, foot by foot. Each man took turns in anchoring himself with his ice axe while another progressed a few feet. To make the matter worse, heavy rain in squalls made the going difficult and dangerous, and many narrow escapes from further tragedy were experienced.
Continuous rain on Monday and Tuesday prevented fires being lighted, so that members were obliged to sleep and work in wet clothes and to eat soaked food, this resulting in chills and frostbite. The party kept progressing from daylight till dark, sleeping and working in conditions of the worst.
SAD CEREMONY. At the extreme edge of the snowfield an appropriate little ceremony was conducted by the Rev. J. T. Crozier prior to commencing the long portage down the Huxley.
Appreciation of the efforts of the party was made by Mr F. C. Dawson on behalf of the relatives, he stating that pride of place must be given to those of the party who stayed on and accomplished a superhuman task under adverse conditions; also to Constables Voyce and Vurney for assistance and to Sergeant McGregor for the tactful manner in which he conducted the case. He also conveyed thanks to all those who had assisted in any way, especially Mr Preston for arranging pack horses.
Sergeant McGregor expressed thanks for the assistance given by members of the party.
THE INQUEST. The inquest was opened to-day before the coroner, Mr W. H. Frith. Sergeant McGregor represented the police.
Francis Newmarch (clerk, Dunedin), gave evidence of identification. He then related the finding of the bodies and the extent of their injuries. In witness’s opinion the three deceased would not have been allowed to proceed up the slope had they not been roped. He considered that every precaution was taken, and that Mount Trent was no more dangerous than any other peak in New Zealand. Edwards and Divers were members of the New Zealand Alpine Club, and were very experienced climbers. Everything possible was done to avoid accident.
The Coroner: Is it possible to avoid such accidents?
Witness: The only way to avoid such calamities is not to climb mountains.
Walter Scott Gilkison, accountant, Dunedin, said the objective of the party was Mount Trent, and the approach to it was made over a considerable glacier which formed the main course of the Huxley River.
Witness stated that when near the slope he saw a boulder slide down the mountain side about 20 feet, and then strike a projecting rock. The stone crossed further over the slope, and appeared to take a bound through the air just in front of the second man in the fifth party, comprising the three deceased. Edwards attempted to steady them, and drove his ice axe deep into the snow, but it was apparently wrenched from his hold. His axe remained firmly embedded in the snow, and the three men slid rapidly down the slope to the snowfield about 1,500ft below. Witness considered that the accident was occasioned by the boulder becoming dislodged and falling in the path of the climbers.
In his opinion every precaution was taken to prevent accident.
James Hogg Gilkison, accountant (Dunedin), said he was one of a party of 17 who left Dunedin for the Huxley Gorge on March 25. The following day thev left Lake Ohau to pack into North Huxley to establish a camp. On Saturday, March 27, 10 of the party left the camp to climb Mount Trent in fine weather. As soon as the glacier beneath the mountain was reached, the partv was roped up, with two experienced climbers on each rope.
There were five independent ropes, the three deceased being on one rope by themselves. Technically speaking, the climb was not a severe one, the distance from the glacier to the summit being about 2,000 ft, but the face was snow-dad and steep, with rock outcrops. The various parties were more or less using the same route, using steps made by the leading party, and at the time of the accident the party comprising the three deceased was last on the slope.
THE DISLODGED BOULDER. When witness was on the summit of a ridge about 50ft from the top he saw a boulder about the size of a man’s head rolling down the slope. He had no idea where the boulder came from. On occasions boulders were loosened by the elements on peaks, but usually in falling they followed defined courses. For this reason they were usually avoided.
The boulder in question seemed to take an unexplainable swing, and swung in the direction of the deceased Stevenson, who was the middle man on the rope. It did not actually hit him, but he appeared to step back to avoid it. Deceased Divers was leading on the rope at this stage, and the unexpected pull seemed to take him out of the step. As far as witness could see, both Divers and Stevenson commenced to slide down the slope simultaneously. Deceased Edwards, apparently noticing this, drove his axe into the snow to get an anchorage, and was able to stop them momentarily, but the momentum of the others was too great, and he was unable to hold them, being pulled out of his step.
The three climbers slid down the slope on to the glacier, approximately 200ft below. Witness had a good view of them all the time during the fall, and saw them come into contact with jutting rocks. After they came to rest there was no sign of movement.
IMMEDIATE RESCUE EFFORT. Immediately afterwards Russell, Edwards, and W. G. McClymont roped up and went down the slope as quickly as possible. To witness’s knowledge both Edwards and Divers had done a considerable amount of climbing in high altitudes over a period of several years, including ascents of Mount Cook, Mount Haidinger, and numerous other peaks in the Cook and Western Otago districts.
On Sunday, the party set about the task of taking the bodies down off the glacier. This proved a very difficult task, and by evening they had managed to get the bodies through the top of the ice fall. Towards the end of the following day, they got the bodies down as far as the snowfield, at the head of the valley. Wednesday and Thursday were taken up in bringing the bodies down the Huxley, where pack horses were waiting under Mr Preston’s (Glen Lion) charge to bring the remains on to Hopkin’s Valley. From the time the news of the accident became known, the Otago and North Otago sections of the New Zealand Alpine Club, with which a large number of the party were associated, worked in conjunction with the police in the organisation of everything required; He was satisfied that the time taken to bring out the bodies could not have been shortened.
The Coroner (summing up) said he was satisfied that the accident was purely misadventure. The universal feeling and sympathy for the relatives had been exemplified by the manner in which the members had worked to bring out the bodies. The police had rendered invaluable service, and also many others, and all would appreciate their endeavours.
The verdict was that the three deceased met their death as the result of injuries received from sliding down the mountain side, the accident being caused by misadventure. -Evening Star, 2/4/1937.
BEREAVEMENT NOTICES
Mr W. A. and Mrs J. DIVERS and Family desire to return their sincere Thanks to all friends for letters, telegrams, and personal expressions of sympathy received by them in their recent tragic bereavement, and also to acknowledge with deep gratitude the many beautiful floral tributes received; also to thank the members of the Police Force in Oamaru and Kurow, Mr Preston, of Glen Lyon Station, Lake Ohau; Rev. J. T. Crozier, Oamaru: Mr McDonald, of Lakeside Station; Post and Telegraph Office at Kurow: and all others whom we are unable to thank personally who rendered such valuable assistance in the recent distressing accident at Mount Trent.
MR and Mrs L. J. EDWARDS and Family desire to return their sincere Thanks to all friends for letters, telegrams, and personal expressions of sympathy received by them in their recent tragic bereavement, and also to acknowledge with deep gratitude the many beautiful floral tributes received: also to thank the members of the Police Force in Oamaru and Kurow; Mr Preston, of Glen Lyon Station. Lake Ohau; Rev. J. T. Crozier, Oamaru; Mr McDonald, of Lakeside Station: Post and Telegraph Office at Kurow; and all others whom we are unable to thank personally who rendered such valuable assistance in the recent distressing accident at Mount Trent. -Otago Daily Times, 6/4/1937.
In Memoriam
DIVERS — EDWARDS. — In loving memory of Symon Donald Divers and George Machan Edwards, killed in alpine accident, Mount Trent, March 27, 1937. “The mountains can sometimes be stern with those who love them." -Evening Star, 26/3/1938.
Memorial on Mount Trent.
During Easter a party of about 30 members of the Otago section of the New Zealand Alpine Club and friends will visit Mount Trent, in the Lake Ohau district, for the purpose of erecting a stone cairn as a memorial to the three young climbers — Symon Donald Divers, George Machin Edwards, of Dunedin, and Roy. Stevenson, of Oamaru — who fell to their deaths on the mountain-side on Easter Saturday of last year, when a boulder became dislodged, causing the party to lose its balance (states the "Otago Daily Times"). It is intended to erect a cairn about six feet high, and a bronze plate will be fitted into the stonework, with the following inscription: — "In. loving memory of Roy Stevenson, Don Divers, George Edwards, who lost their lives in an attempt on Mount Trent, 27th March, 1937. Erected by members of the climbing party and friends." The names are placed in the order in which the climbers fell. -Evening Post, 14/4/1938.
A SPLENDID GESTURE
ECHO OF MOUNT TRENT TRAGEDY
MEMORIAL CAIRN ERECTED
Adventure greeted those members of the Otago section of the New Zealand Alpine Club who travelled to the Lake Ohau district at Easter. The intention of the trip was the erecting of a cairn in memory 'of Roy Stevenson, of Oamaru, Symon Donald Divers and George Machin Edwards, of Dunedin, who lost their lives on the slopes of Mount Trent, Easter Sunday, 1937. The party numbered 35 in all, and included the members of the unfortunate climbing party of last year, as well as several friends.
The heavy rain which fell on the Thursday before Easter caused flooding of all creeks and streams in the district. The procession of motor cars was continually held up, and the crossing of the swollen waterways frequently presented a serious problem. On more than one occasion members of the party had to pull the cars across the streams. On other places parts of the roadway were washed out, and considerable time was occupied in rebuilding these washouts and making the road safe for the unusual string of traffic. It was necessary for some of the cars at least to get through to the proposed site of the cairn, as it would have been impossible to carry bags of cement several miles up the valley in the deluge that was falling.
Despite the unfavourable conditions a start was instantly made to erect the cairn. The site chosen was in a clearing in the forest clothing the hillside, and about 10ft above the floor of the valley. A good deal of work, which was in the hands of two capable stonemasons, had to be carried out under the protection of a tarpaulin. The party was keen, and worked hard to collect suitable rocks, which were outlined in position by black lime mortar.
The cairn was erected in slightly less than two days. Immediately upon completion a dedication service was conduced by the Rev. James Crozier, who had been a member of the ill-fated party. In an impressive ceremony Mr Crozier made feeling references to the lives and characters of the three young men, and paid a tribute to the generous actions that had made the erection of the cairn possible. He said also that the tragedy had occurred on the anniversary of another tragedy — the death of Captain Scott and his companions in the Polar wastes in 1912.
The cairn stands 5ft high, and carries a bronze tablet, the inscription of which is: —
"In loving memory of Roy Stevenson, Don. Divers, George Edwards, who lost their lives in an attempt on Mount Trent, March 27, 1937. Erected by members of their climbing party and friends." -Evening Star, 22/4/1938.
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Mount Trent, seen from the Landsborough River. Photo used with kind permission of Southernalpsphotography.com |
OTAGO SPORTSMAN'S DEATH
FLIGHT-SERGEANT ALLAN EDWARDS
The news of the death of Flight-sergeant Allan James Edwards on active service will come as a great shock to his friends, and they were many, for not only was Sergeant Edwards closely connected with several branches of sport, but his pleasant, straightforward, and sincere personality made a friend of almost everyone who came in contact with him.
Before he joined the Royal New Zealand Air Force in January, 1941, Sergeant Edwards, who was 22, earned an enviable reputation in the world of sport. For two seasons prior to enlisting he played in senior football for the Southern Club, and in that time he showed considerable promise as a five eighth. On the cricket field, too, he gave many a bright display for the High School Old Boys’ Club, both as a batsman and in the field. In the 1940-41 season he represented Otago against Canterbury in Plunket Shield cricket.
He was an enthusiastic alpinist, and, as one of the foremost active members of the Otago section of the New Zealand Alpine Club he had a splendid record on the mountains. In the Otago Ski Club he was also an ardent participator in the tricky and hazardous sport that the club fostered, and showed himself to be no mean skier.
After joining the Air Force he trained at various New Zealand stations before going to Canada, whence, after a few months, he went to England. He became attached to a Spitfire squadron, and, according to the last information received from him, he had taken part in 50 operational sweeps, and had at least one enemy machine to his credit. He gave his services to the Empire with the same sincere enthusiasm that he gave them to everything else.
Sergeant Edwards was a son of Mr and Mrs L Edwards, Lochend street, Tainui, and was one of three brothers serving, the other two being Russell, who is in the Middle East, and Gordon, who is in camp in New Zealand. -Evening Star, 14/9/1942.
Flight Sergeant Edwards was part of a squadron sweep in Spitfire Vbs which encountered two He59 biplane floatplanes escorted by six Fw190 fighters. It is possible that the He59s were painted white with red crosses but such planes had been observed in the past conducting reconnaissance missions and were regard as "fair game" by the Royal Air Force. The German fighters were joined by 12 more and two of the Spitfires were shot down. Allan Edwards' plane was seen to hit the water but he wasn't seen to exit the plane - in fact, he had bailed out but died of exposure while in his rescue dinghy. His body was recovered from the sea and buried at Felixstowe New Cemetery.
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